Lyme Regis Bay, Watercolour and sgraffito, A4 Flat White Sketchbook.

Jurassic Jaunt 3.4 – Lyme Regis, Cannington Viaduct & Most Boring Coastal Walk EVER

< Previously – Satanists, Windy Beacons & Foggy Knolls

So after the rainy drizzle of Puncknowle and rather freaked out at the demonic goings on in Abbotsbury I then decided I had exhausted the area for now and make a big move to Lyme Regis via Cannington Viaduct. Given the foggy dreich weather I was half wondering whether to abandon the whole thing, but I felt I had more to do, and I’d never been to Lyme Regis (for some reason I confused it with Bognor Regis, I had never been to Lyme Regis). So I jumped on the X51 bus at Chideock and it took me all the way there!

So onwards to fossils in the mist, viaducts and probably the most boring coastal walk I’ve ever done, and the nagging feeling I’m starring in a new versions of Sightseers…with less murder and death (hopefully?).

Transcript

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Just packing up the tent at Home Farm. It’s, of course, it’s been deep. It’s got so
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horrible bleak grey misty all day. And of course, I mean, I kind of knew this
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was happening. Well, I suspect it happened because the weather report said
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something, but you can’t believe the weather reports around here at all. Like
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it’s been saying, it’s not raining. It’s been chucking it down in the morning here
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and also Golden Cap. So the weather reports are variable at best. But, but
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yes, the, it’s been, I was wondering whether to stay on another day. But, and
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actually I stayed a day longer than I wanted to, which was today. Because, well,
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which is like yesterday. I was like, I’m gonna check out Robert’s Brubos. I could
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have stayed on tonight as well. One problem, when it’s raining, and it’s also
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when you’ve got annoying children in the background. When it’s raining, you’ve
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got nowhere to go in a place like this. There is, apart from hiding in the
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toilets, you know, when there’s the local pub, you know, it’s only open until
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12 to late or 12 to, I think it’s 12, 12 to wait. Sundays, I think it’s 12,
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it was 10, I think, last night. And I went for, I’m glad I had organised a
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pub meal, because after a day of hiding in coffee shops and getting drenched in,
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then doing some work, I think it drenched again. And that weirdness at the
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chapel and all that sort of stuff. I was just glad to not have to try and cook in
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a rainstorm. Or it wasn’t, it’s not really a rainstorm. If it was a rainstorm, it
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would be sort of over and then, then it could change. No, it’s this constant sort
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of drizzly, ugh. And that’s kind of really got to me the last couple of days,
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because, you know, when it’s misty, I can’t go and work, because you can’t
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see anything. And when it’s chucking it down, I can’t work easily. And so I’ve
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got somewhere to shelter, and of course, what you don’t have in a tent. Unless you
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go into the headland and pitch that tent, which is one way of doing it, though
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obviously then you’re, then you’re wild camping, and you’ve got security issues
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and issues around your tent being blown away, because exactly the very nice
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wonderful scenes that you see are exactly the places where you would not camp,
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because you just get your tent all blown away. So yeah, it’s a difficult one.
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You know, I mean the ideal would be to do that. But the thing is, I have so much
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stuff to carry, even though I’ve been trying to narrow it down even just today,
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like, oh, eat this, eat this, don’t have to carry this, eat this. I find that the
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base camp idea is better, and that you go, you go to a place, and then, and then
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you walk, you do your day walks from there, because I have done some of that,
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sort of, walk with something, but after about three, you know, two or three miles
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with all your shit with you, is hard-going. You know, and I know you can
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juice it down, but there is a point of where you’re like, well, you’ve got no
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coffee at all, you know, oh, you’ve, you can, you know, you can not have a stove,
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and then just have, you know, cold food. But if you’re getting that off limits, the
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problem with me is that I can’t do the bread, because the bread in these places
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is not gluten-free, so it’s kind of, it’s a real limit, you have to stay at a
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certain amount within, either, well, you don’t have to take a shitload of bread,
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which is more weight, or then, and the shitload of water, because you’re going
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off grid, or you stay near a civilization, where you can actually get these
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things. And it’s a difficult one, especially as I move away from the
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more touristy areas, and, you know, when the idea was to go all around the coast at
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one point. The difficulty with that is that it’s a good idea, but how do you
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navigate those things, you know, do you, because, you know, for instance, if you’re
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going for a long trip, to not eat a hot meal, for, you know, it’s fine when it’s
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lovely and warm and hot, you’re like, oh, great picnics, when you actually are cold
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and wet, and it’s just horrible, you want, and, you know, you know, and it’s the same
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with the showers, because, who needs hot showers, oh, just rough it, you know, if
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your muscles are really aching, and you’re happy, my legs get very unhappy,
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I have problems with one of my knees and my feet. A hot shower is the way you
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stop that kicking off full-time, otherwise it literally cannot walk, and so
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that’s the point of where it’s kind of, it becomes a sort of false economy of
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trying to, trying to pare things down to nothing, because I could, and I used to,
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you know, carry not less stuff, I mean, I’ve carried wood stoves, and then used the
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fuels, I’d go along, and that didn’t work, because obviously, again, you need the
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fuel to be dry, and also, you just end up living life collecting twigs, and
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they’re gone in like two seconds, it’s very hard to, and all you’re carrying
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the fuel, which is even heavier than a gas stove, as much as I hate gas stoves, and
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the gas stove was doing weird things earlier, I think it got wet in the night,
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and it was like, it was doing this weird flaming thing, and I was like, ah, no, it
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doesn’t stop working, and then it sort of, switched the canister, and it
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confirmed it was the burney stovey bit, and then when I put it back, it was
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behaving better than, and I was like, eh, but it was weird, I was standing in the side of the tent going,
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long way away, going, ah, it’s boiling, I don’t know, but yeah, I think the point is,
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I made this to a friend of mine, Huxbear, I don’t know if he’s listening, that I do
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this, not, I’ve had a lot of guys sort of admire the tent, and admire, you know, I
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sell the panel, and admire the, sort of, off, and they’re expecting me to be
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walking from side to side and stuff like that, and there’s a bunch of them I find out, I bust them, and then sort of do day walks, but the
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thing is, is that, I don’t do this because I think it’s cute or fun, I don’t do this
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for Instagram value, I do this because I’m fucking poor, camping is not
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something I enjoy, I hate camping, I really, really do not like camping,
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especially when it’s like, well, it’s now sunny, and typically, you know, typically
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when, you know, when I’m about to go, of course it’s, of course it’s sunny, but it’s
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lovely and sunny, it’s well, the tub that’s drying the tent a bit, but the, you
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know, the idea that, oh yeah, yeah, you know, oh it’s such a lovely, lovely idea,
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and oh it’s, it’s, it’s a, it’s a, you know, oh it’s so lovely, it’s not, it’s shit, I only do it
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because, you know, I couldn’t afford a, you know, you can’t get a B&B for a
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certain quid a night, you can’t get a youth hostel for a certain quid a night in
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most places, so, you know, even a shared bed is like, it’s 20, 30 plus, I think, not a
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shared bed, a shared room, a shared bed, yeah, not even a shared, you know, but a
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single room is 80 plus or was, probably more now, but if you, if you want to do
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it, do it in the dorms, it’s like, I think it’s 30, depends where it is, some places
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are cheap, some places are not, but also then you’re sharing with some really weird
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people, as I found, yeah, as I found off in Scotland, so, yeah, having to listen to
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people’s tall tales at the, at the, at the dinner table without going, bullshit,
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there was a guy bragging constantly on that, on that Scotland trip, who I kept
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bumping into, he was a white twat, right, and, yeah, so, I don’t do this because I
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love, have any particular love for Cambay, I don’t like creepy crawlies, I don’t
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like, I don’t like when I’m all wet, and everything is wet, and you go, I stayed to
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the pub till about, from 9 30 last night, because, or maybe 10, I think 9 30 is 10,
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because I just didn’t want to come back to a, sort of, cold, wet tent, and look at
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the inside, it’s been fairly dry, but the problem is, as soon as you tighten it up
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to the point of where the sides won’t touch the things, you can’t then, you
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can’t then close the zips, probably, see little opesties in, it’s kind of, oops,
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it’s kind of a problem with the design, and of course, I’ve seen YouTube videos
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on how to put this tent up, the 3FUL, UL gear, the Chinese company, and it’s,
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it’s not a bad tent, it’s just the problem is, is that it is, you have to work it out
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yourself, you know, there are quirks to it, which you know, part of the reason why
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I got kind of a bit, it was flapping like a fucker in the, in the first place, in
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in Eweleaze, was I put it up really quickly, and I put it wrongly, and having, not
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having a garden, like some people, I can’t practice it, I did practice it in the
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park actually, when I first got it, I went in October, I went and practiced in the
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park, and felt like a fool putting a tent in the park, but you know, but you know,
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so I did practice it, but it’s, yeah, it’s easy if you’ve got like a garden or
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somewhere to practice putting it up, I put it up quite, I mean, October trips
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now, I’m getting quite good at how to tweak it, I mean, if you’ve got one of
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these 3FUL, or one FUL, or one of the UL gear tents, my general tip is, don’t put
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in the initial pegs to keep it down, if you can, of course, when I first put up
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it with a bloody gale, so that’s why I tightened it too tight, you keep it all
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loosely pegged in, then you do the guys, then you do the pole at the height
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that’s supposed to be, or close to, it says 125 cm for the trekking pole, then
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you, then you tighten everything, but that’s a luxury, if you have, what time is it?
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Oh my god, I need to get out of here, because that’s supposed to be out by 12, 10
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minutes to go, but the tent is down, it’s drying, come and scream at me, I’ll be like,
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well, I’m almost out of here, but yes, and then you tighten everything, but of
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course, if you are putting it up in a fucking gale as I was, at Eweleaze, on the
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headland, I didn’t do that, so of course everything was vibrating, and not in a
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good way, but you know, it was too, I put it up too tight with the bottom on the
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sort of pegs, the peg, the fly seat, and the inner tent down, and then I,
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yeah, then all the, it just wasn’t tensioned right, so you do have to kind of
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like fiddle with it to get it right, and keep fiddling with it, especially to
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try and get a shape that doesn’t pull worse with the back, because that’s the
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problem, if you got it wrong, if you’re going to get high enough,
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pull the water back, if you get too high, I’m going to say it sort of pulls the,
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it’s something weird with the way it works, is it sort of pulls the inner
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tent up a bit too high, so the corners pull up, which is not a massive problem,
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but then you have trouble closing the inner tent, so anyway, I’ve
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got to pack up now, and I said I’m heading to Lyme Regis, Cannington, it’s
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right by one of the Bluebell Viaducts, so it’s all getting very Sightseers, I’m
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ending up by viaducts, I’ve probably something to jump off here, anyway, I’ve not killed anyone,
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almost, yeah, I’ve gone close, yeah, because I made a comment for this, it’s like Sightseers or that,
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this is like Sightseers without a murdering, that’s optional, but I haven’t
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met anyone else, and yeah, I haven’t gone around the page, but the, yeah, it looks
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really nice, and it’s, they’ve got availability even over the bank holiday
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weekend, so I might stay there for a bit, I might not, but the boss is at one, so I
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better rush, I’ve got everything packed up, the main thing was getting the
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rucksack packed up, the rest of it is kind of like, you know, I was gonna say
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well, you know, allowing the tent to dry, the tents rolled up, they can come and go
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I’ll be like, well, you know, he’s a bag, bastard, bastard wasps is trying to piss
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around, do you know what I said, do you know what it’s stomped on, bloody wasps, I know they do a good job, because there’s wasps
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near the bus stop at Golden – Preston, not Preston, somewhere else,
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I’ve seen a losing track of places, Chideock, on the batteries, and I know why
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they were, because they were just eating aphids, they ate aphid eggs, it’s not the
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only thing that wasps do, it’s any good. Anyway, I’ll speak to you soon, hopefully
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from a new location, and hopefully this weather will continue, apparently it’s
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going to get drier, I hope so, because as I say the last couple days I’ve been
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ugh, you know, and I mean sort of to the level of thinking just abandoning the
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trip, ugh, I mean that’s how, because if it’s just chucking it down wet, I spend
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my life just sitting in cafes trying to charge things up, it’s just like, what
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is the point of being on this trip? Anyway, I’ll speak to you soon.
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I’m in Lyme Regis, the town that Time Forgot. Yes, plenty of fossils and that’s
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just the people here, the shops and I got in sort of to staff before six, and I
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would say the majority of the place was closed down, because it’s all open till
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four or five, if I say, including lunchtime closing, I couldn’t say closing
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earlier if you don’t do your lunchtime, but yeah, I bet they do early day
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closing as well, but yeah it’s nice to be here, to be here nice. The campsite is
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lovely, it’s near up Lyme, and it is right next to the Cannington viaduct,
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which I didn’t realize, I thought it was still functional, but they, the Lyme
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Regis line has been closed down, and it’s, it’s all private, you can’t even walk
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along it, it’s all private property. I’m surprised I haven’t tried to reopen it as
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a tourist attraction, a steam line or something, or extension of the Bluebell
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line or something, I think that’s somewhere else, that’s Hampshire isn’t it, but yeah,
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East Wing, Bluebell line, East Wing, but yeah, it is, yeah, it’s been a weird day
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because I’ve seen to spend the whole day putting things in bags, and then I’m
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packing them from bags, putting up tents twice, and the whole holiday in fact
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actually, just putting things into bags I think, especially just to avoid
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pesties, to avoid ants and slugs and things, but also walking here, even I
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can see it even now, you’ve got this really weird thing where down at low,
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it’s sunshine down at the lower level, and then there’s cloud and mist on the hills,
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and that’s what it’s been like. I’ve got photographs of like, sunshine fields, and
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suddenly you’ve got this rolling mist, and you seem to roll in and roll out, and it’s
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very spooky, but luckily I’ve got some more munchies because the the new place
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which is really nice is, has got access to electricity, yes, I can charge my
17:42.400 –> 17:51.520
batteries, yay, literally, figuratively and literally, and also I have access to a
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fridge, so I couldn’t keep things cold, so that will help, so I bought some, well
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actually found a place here, I’ve got a Tesco, no M&S, I thought Lyme Regis was
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posh, but no M&S, if they don’t seem to do M&S down in the food halls, down this
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part of the world, they were doing waymeth, but no further, I’m sure they didn’t tell.
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No Waitrose eye though, not posh as big pot, but they’ve got Tesco Express and a
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Co-op, interestingly no spa, I thought that was the law around here, that every place
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has to, every single little town, village, everything has to have a spa, it
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seemed to be, I thought there was a law, local law, so yes, but yeah we went to the
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Co-op, I’ve got some Co-op Prosecco little bottles, which I’m drinking at the
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moment, hehehe, it’s probably against some kind of blot by law, I also might have
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poloined some brown sugar, and I don’t mean that in a drug sensor, it’s not from
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them, from elsewhere, but I paid for a lot of groceries, making a phone a few
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times a day is about so good, seriously I just don’t want to have, I just don’t
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want to have to look around the whole bag of sugar, and I’m running out, but the
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coffee’s left as well, and so has the camp stove, it still is going, although it was
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doing as I say weird things earlier, I still can’t believe it’s still going,
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like, it’s not exactly the fortnight since I started this trip, but it’s
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not far off, it’s a few days off that, but yeah it’s a long time for
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something that, as I say, I’ve been hanging around for decades, and I thought this is not
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full, this is going to run out, I’m going to show you what this is, it’s an hour or two hours burn
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time, you’re saying, oh that won’t last, no it does, it does, that’s a full thingy anyway,
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so yes, so I’m going to see the do more touring tomorrow, I think probably come
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and see the good answer coast, and see the Ammonite Beach, which is off Monmouth Beach,
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I saw a sign, someone that you made a handmade sign saying, ignore Google
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suggestions, you can’t get to the Ammonite Beach from the southwest coast
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path, which is not a surprise, so apparently you access it to the beach, so
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I’ll do that, it better not be shingle, I bet it’s shingle, not the shelf itself,
20:37.760 –> 20:41.680
but yeah, so we’re going to have a look at that, maybe do some drawings, I don’t know,
20:41.680 –> 20:47.240
we’ll see how we feel, there’s certainly things from photographs of it, there’s
20:47.240 –> 20:54.960
a certain person I know who will love that, who urged me to go to the kit, hello Chris,
20:54.960 –> 21:01.080
Chris is his name, not the kit isn’t his name, but yeah, he urged me to go to the
21:01.080 –> 21:11.800
fossil forest near Lulworth, and so yes, he’s a fan of fossils, so I’m a fan of
21:11.800 –> 21:21.640
the fossils, but more of the old men’s sort, he’s a fan of the stone sort, so
21:21.640 –> 21:27.400
yes, I think it’s sottled on Prosecco, two sottles, I need to head back, I’m just
21:27.400 –> 21:36.620
resting my feet, but yeah, it’s certainly clearing up, and you can see
21:36.620 –> 21:41.160
sunshine, there’s been sunshine today, and it’s a much nicer day, and now I’m
21:41.160 –> 21:46.440
hoping, as they say tomorrow, the bank holiday is going to be good, I hope so,
21:46.440 –> 21:51.560
because as I say, the last couple of days have been shit, and it’s been
21:51.560 –> 21:57.480
depressing to be in a tent, where it’s just constant drizzle, drizzle for
21:57.480 –> 22:23.480
shizzle, but you know, yeah, I’m getting Swanage meets Weymouth vibes here, I have been here, I’m pretty sure I’ve been here, I’ve really, yeah, I have been here, if I go to the train station, which I will do at some point probably, because you know, it depends how further I go on my trip, I might go even further, but
22:23.480 –> 22:31.280
probably I’ll end up getting a single to Weymouth, and you know, or however it works
22:31.280 –> 22:36.040
out, getting a not a notional single to Weymouth, and they’re not going that way,
22:36.040 –> 22:42.680
but covering me for that part of the trip, and then using the return for the rest,
22:42.680 –> 22:51.360
because this is outside of my, this is outside of my network real card thing,
22:51.360 –> 22:57.520
so it stops at Weymouth, so that’s partly why I chose the Jurassic Coast, was that
22:57.520 –> 23:03.000
I could get a third off fail down to here, but actually it’s no reason why you
23:03.000 –> 23:07.480
can’t go do that to Weymouth, and then get you know, normal price ticket for the
23:07.480 –> 23:17.240
rest, you know, but you know, trains add up, but yeah, so I do remember coming, though
23:17.240 –> 23:22.920
it looks different, so maybe I’ll just imagine something else, but I’m pretty sure
23:25.160 –> 23:31.880
I’ll have to go and have a look at that part, I remember more of an esplanade, so
23:31.880 –> 23:37.240
maybe it was a different part of this place, or it was just my imagining
23:37.240 –> 23:47.220
something, but anyway it’s lovely, I better sign off, and I’ll speak
23:47.220 –> 23:54.240
to you soon. Just realized I was confusing this place with Bogna Regis, so
23:54.240 –> 23:59.160
no, I don’t think I’ve ever been to the Lyme Regis, this is completely off the
23:59.160 –> 24:05.360
charts, this is new stuff for me, because yeah, I don’t recognize any of it, so I
24:05.360 –> 24:10.120
don’t think I’ve ever been, I’ve never been this far, it’d be Viaducts, it’d be
24:10.120 –> 24:16.200
Dragons, so anyway, yeah, because yeah, of course the railway closed, because the
24:16.200 –> 24:20.920
Viaduct is where the railway came in, and it’s not working, you’ve got to shut down,
24:20.920 –> 24:27.560
I don’t know when, so I won’t be taking the train from here, they’ll probably be
24:27.560 –> 24:32.600
from Dorchester, or I don’t know if it’s the train goes to Axminster, one of those,
24:32.600 –> 24:40.720
or Yeovil or the train goes there, so yeah, we want those places, I will have to take a
24:40.720 –> 24:45.760
bus to, oh, maybe I’ll take the bus all the way back to Weymouth, I might do that,
24:45.760 –> 24:54.360
I mean it depends how far east I go really, the sky is a limit, oh it’s
24:54.360 –> 25:16.640
rather misty then I am, haha.

This photo of Cannington Viaduct and the amazing campsite was taken much later in the trip when the sun finally came out. See the thumbnail of the podcast for the gloomier version!
This photo of Cannington Viaduct and the amazing campsite was taken much later in the trip when the sun finally came out. See the thumbnail of the podcast for the gloomier version!

I’d seen the photo of the Cannington Viaduct and the Cannington Farm campsite next door and immediately wanted to stay there. It’s about 2 miles from Lyme Regis – a short bus ride – the X51 from Lyme to Uplyme garage/Talbot Arms or a short walk (although mind the busy roads, there are routes away from them but you still have to cross the incredibly scary Devon motorways. I took to putting my pink trekking pole out and pointing my head torch backwards after a few episodes where locals decided to try and scare me or mow me down at night).

One of the major benefits of the campsite is it has access to several fridges, freezers and electricity charging, which makes a massive difference to Eweleaze and melting bags of ice (and ants attacking! Although here we had really strange white long-legged spiders and beetles which wanted to constantly make friends and enter my tent – and yes moths dive-bombing my head torch when I cooked at night!)

It was a long hard schlep with a rather heavy rucksack and food bag – I’d stocked up rather too much in Bridport and Lyme Regis – they have a Tescos, free from the cruel tyranny Spar 😉 I worried about being a bit out in the boonies. I didn’t have to worry, there is a small garage shop at Uplyme where you get the bus from, also a camping shop at the nearby Hook Farm Campsite which has gas bottles and a small selection of food.

But you never know until you get there. I walked along the road rather than the paths and tracks over the fields and across the former railway – the railway would have made a brilliant walk – or indeed a steam railway but apart from a section where the path crosses and it’s not fenced, it’s strictly off-limits. But again, without knowing if it’s going to be glutinous or a very uppy-downy – I found out later one part is very much so – it was a risky thing to try. Again, local knowledge, once you’re there you can work that stuff out, but not when it’s all new to you and you are winging it.

The viaduct was built around 1900 and is listed but sadly not used, but is amazing to see as you come out of your tent. The campsite is brilliant – best find of the trip – and the owners are friendly and there’s a real family feel – to the staff there, the people staying – a lot of shared drinks and meals, which also meant I didn’t eat all that food I had dragged there! There was a stand-offish noisy group party who almost stole some of my food from the fridge (oi – hands off my prosecco!) but after they left it was bliss.

I really didn’t want to leave, and amazingly they were available over the crunch period of the August Bank Holiday so I stayed around a week and used it as a hub for further down the coast.

Cannington Viaduct, Lyra Graphite crayons, A4 Flat White sketchbook.
Cannington Viaduct, Lyra Graphite crayons, A4 Flat White sketchbook.
Transcript

00:00.000 –> 00:08.120
The third dreich, yes, it’s only going so well this morning because it’s like dreich
00:08.120 –> 00:16.24
tent and you know sort of I could see my little solar thing ticking and I was like
00:16.240 –> 00:20.480
oh excellent and then about eight nine o’clock eight o’clock I’d sort of lie in
00:20.480 –> 00:25.920
because I got really back a little late last night which is a mistake because
00:25.920 –> 00:29.280
I’m now leaving the campsite at midday because I you know I think I would have
00:29.280 –> 00:34.960
had an earlier day if I’d got breakfast earlier and fall the deluge then big
00:34.960 –> 00:41.400
deluge and it just all came down so this idea of I mean I know it’s a classic
00:41.400 –> 00:48.800
thing saying as soon as they forecast their lovely August bank holiday it’s
00:48.800 –> 00:54.560
going to be raining and shit but I’m getting to the point where it’s the
00:54.560 –> 01:01.240
third day of this I think it’s the third day yeah because it started on Monday so
01:01.240 –> 01:09.400
this is the third day of all this shit coming up their day and you know at
01:09.400 –> 01:17.200
this point you know Tuesday was misted out they moved here they cleared when
01:17.200 –> 01:24.880
they got here so excellent and it’s doing it again and Monday night was
01:24.880 –> 01:33.200
affected and it’s just at this point if it goes into a third day tomorrow then
01:33.200 –> 01:37.520
I’m going home because I’m you know there’s a limit to what I can do on a
01:37.520 –> 01:41.760
day like this you know I’m not I’m not good at doing miss scenes at the best
01:41.760 –> 01:49.480
of times but anyway also it doesn’t help is in the campsite oh I hope that I do
01:49.480 –> 01:55.120
hope they’re leaving I do have they’re actually leaving now in the campsite
01:55.120 –> 02:01.560
they are you know what I was trying to draw the viaduct and when I arrived
02:01.560 –> 02:06.360
there was this they were making a lot of noise and I thought people were I assumed
02:06.360 –> 02:13.640
people were bungee jumping off the viaduct that’s how it’s noise
02:13.640 –> 02:20.520
constant fucking noise I can’t believe this I’ve been on the campsite hearing
02:20.520 –> 02:25.840
their noise and now they’re all fucking off it’s just like for the day
02:25.840 –> 02:33.480
great they’ve sort of driven me from the campsite so yeah they went to
02:33.480 –> 02:38.520
midnight last night yeah I know it’s sounding very Nuts in May they went to
02:38.520 –> 02:42.840
midnight last night of noise all the way to the day they’re playing some kind of
02:42.840 –> 02:50.920
croquet and but and they’re all kicker you know I’m not you know I think it’s
02:50.920 –> 02:56.320
some kind of group party or some kind of celebration or something they’re
02:56.320 –> 02:59.040
actually quite rude to the people the people on the campsite they won’t say
02:59.040 –> 03:06.280
hello and they tried to steal my food you know they I would happen to be there
03:06.280 –> 03:12.760
luckily when they were trying they were clearing off all their stuff from their
03:12.760 –> 03:19.360
party last night and obviously removing it or whatever to take home I should hope
03:19.360 –> 03:27.320
and and they went all that fridge and I went oh no no that’s mine that’s mine so
03:27.320 –> 03:30.880
they would have nicked my prosecco I’ve got a bottle of prosecco in there and my
03:30.880 –> 03:37.840
cheese and I have and my oat milk or could have you know and it’s just like
03:37.840 –> 03:42.400
but you know I said more than mornings they didn’t come over and say hi they’ve
03:42.400 –> 03:50.480
not said hi at all there’s one word to them I think one I went to the showers
03:50.480 –> 03:55.560
last night and it was like you know were you were you going to because it saw me
03:55.560 –> 04:01.240
of that what I had my washing my dishwashing with me and I said oh the
04:01.240 –> 04:06.120
shower and then you know it’s a morning and then you say anything and it’s just
04:06.120 –> 04:11.720
like if you’re gonna be annoying on the campsite just be fucking polite to
04:11.720 –> 04:18.120
everyone else because you know it’s just the least you can do is at least be
04:18.120 –> 04:22.640
polite to what the people on campsite because you’re being a nuisance
04:22.640 –> 04:29.040
you know you’re going to celebrate your noise it’s like your neighbours at home so
04:29.040 –> 04:33.600
yeah I’m just hoping off because it’s just I’ve told they were going today I
04:33.600 –> 04:39.800
do hope they are because all most of them are going because it’s yeah it’s been
04:39.800 –> 04:44.160
constant noise and so I’ve got there I mean not massively I’m up on the hill
04:44.160 –> 04:48.360
away from them but yeah they’ve got this weird dice game which you go click
04:48.360 –> 04:53.520
click click click click and so while I was and then they go some kind of game
04:53.520 –> 04:57.480
they’re playing underneath their shelter so while I was sitting by my tent
04:57.480 –> 05:05.120
drawing the viaduct trying not to get wet trying to get attacked by spiders
05:05.120 –> 05:13.240
yeah that’s a long story yeah they were doing that and it was just like you went
05:13.240 –> 05:16.200
till 12 last night now you’re making noise in the day and you’re making
05:16.200 –> 05:20.640
noise yesterday and you’re not being friendly and you almost stole my
05:20.640 –> 05:28.080
food so do fuck off yeah I’m not usually that friendly to people who are yeah we
05:28.080 –> 05:34.720
had a party tent at a golden cap who I didn’t have music but went to about one
05:34.720 –> 05:37.840
or two in the morning that was a bit annoying exhausting at least only went
05:37.840 –> 05:45.200
till 12 but they do act like they’re in the campsite so otherwise the campsite is
05:45.200 –> 05:50.200
great it’s really brilliant coming to this so I really do recommend it as long
05:50.200 –> 05:54.720
as you don’t get this these people which you probably won’t so it’s the campers
05:54.720 –> 06:00.000
not nothing to do with the campsites or the campsites really lovely and it’s the
06:00.000 –> 06:04.840
one thing if the weather drives me home it’s the one thing I’d be really fucked
06:04.840 –> 06:12.560
off about will be you know the fact that you know I’ve got this amazing viaduct
06:12.560 –> 06:16.480
here that I want to draw and I have drawn but not very well because it was
06:16.480 –> 06:28.080
raining I was sheltering literally drawing it from my tent you know so I do
06:28.080 –> 06:34.400
want to draw this properly I can not sure how properly I can do it in the
06:34.400 –> 06:47.760
middle of a camp field you know and you know you know and also you know I’m
06:47.760 –> 06:51.600
really excited about lime reduce and the environment I’m gonna go walking today
06:51.600 –> 06:56.240
for a rather belatedly late partly because I’ve been kept awake by
06:56.240 –> 07:06.520
certain people but partly because of the weather so yeah even in paradise there’s
07:06.520 –> 07:11.480
always there’s always pants gets back to the other thing as friend of mine page
07:11.480 –> 07:16.880
she would love this site because it’s incredibly diverse and as an ecological
07:16.880 –> 07:24.760
artist I should be as an ecological artist I should be so down with a beastie
07:24.760 –> 07:33.520
you know and pasties I’m not because really don’t I won’t go trying to kill
07:33.520 –> 07:37.920
spiders but you don’t like them and these is literally is a spider’s been
07:37.920 –> 07:41.640
trying to get into my tent or I don’t know what’s what the deal is with that
07:41.640 –> 07:49.520
spider it’s been trying to you know it’s crawled on me on my legs on my this is
07:49.520 –> 07:53.560
long-legged sort of grass-living spider I’ve seen them before but you know they’re
07:53.560 –> 08:02.480
quite rare you know and so you know and that sort of thing it is crazy you know
08:02.480 –> 08:06.920
so he’s just you know I’ve just been trying not to get black beetles in my
08:06.920 –> 08:15.880
tent and it seems like all of the possible insect life of Britain is
08:15.880 –> 08:20.880
represented in this campsite and wanting to get into my tent and as a page
08:20.880 –> 08:26.520
would love it because she’s into her bugs and creepy crawlies I do not I am not
08:26.520 –> 08:32.120
into these things especially spiders I’m quite phobic I’ve got better I’ve got
08:32.120 –> 08:39.080
less yeah I would just scream this campsite down if I had this big spider on
08:39.080 –> 08:44.680
my leg years ago so I’ve got better but still I’m not happy about them I’m not
08:44.680 –> 08:55.760
happy about the spiders being here I try to work out if I can sit here to draw
08:55.760 –> 09:01.280
the thing or whether I get bothered by the cows but whether I’ll get bothered
09:01.280 –> 09:06.520
by the farmer actually more likely having a go at me for daring to sit in this
09:06.520 –> 09:16.360
field but I’m near the footpath no crops to trample this might get bothered by
09:16.360 –> 09:26.320
the coos but yeah so it is a weird day again with all the mist and all the
09:26.320 –> 09:41.520
stuff let’s see what we can make of the day really see what we can do you know
09:41.520 –> 09:46.480
it’s it’s it’s you know it’s it’s kind of you know I expect one or two days like
09:46.480 –> 09:51.440
this I don’t expect them to be together and I don’t expect them to be kind of
09:51.440 –> 09:58.520
like continuous I seemingly going into a third day and you know the weather not
09:58.520 –> 10:02.400
clearing up at any point really sort of having moments like last night was nice
10:02.400 –> 10:06.320
and I did a I did a drawing and painting which I might include as the
10:06.320 –> 10:13.680
artwork of this all the obviaduct must I do something better I do hope so I did a
10:13.680 –> 10:22.200
sort of a graphite and watercolor drawing in the from the new sort of
10:22.200 –> 10:26.320
defenses because they’ve done this thing at the line radius where they’ve built
10:26.320 –> 10:36.800
these kind of undercliffed defenses which you can then undercliffed
10:36.800 –> 10:40.400
defenses so you can walk along them and then you can actually sit there and
10:40.400 –> 10:48.320
there was such amazing clouds and mist with sunshine yesterday I don’t do it
10:48.320 –> 10:51.720
today but it was a weird combination people I heard people commenting on it
10:51.720 –> 10:55.120
it’s like you’d have this level of mist and then you’d have below it you’d have
10:55.120 –> 10:59.520
the sunshine and it’s such a kind of weird combination like someone was putting
10:59.520 –> 11:04.160
loads of dry ice above and then and then there was this sort of layer of
11:04.160 –> 11:08.160
sunshine but it’s always an odd combination of lighting or combination
11:08.160 –> 11:13.800
and so I did a sort of a panorama of that I’m not really happy with it the
11:13.800 –> 11:18.000
drawing was terrible while she’s in the light of crayons and it was like oh well
11:18.000 –> 11:23.080
I’m they have their place they’re very good at sort of a bold things that
11:23.080 –> 11:28.080
subject me to something a bit more gentle and I already had most of them of a
11:28.080 –> 11:34.280
miniature bottle of prosecco at that point so I wasn’t really doing gentle so
11:34.280 –> 11:41.000
yes it was a bit of a bit of a mad one I do feel I need to get further away from
11:41.000 –> 11:51.760
this fire let’s draw it problem is where views of either that’s got a viewpoint
11:51.760 –> 11:58.440
that’s not there’s a laying in that way yeah I don’t know anyone have to check
11:58.440 –> 12:07.640
that so yeah I’d like to draw this viaduct here it will happen I might do it
12:07.640 –> 12:16.320
now properly with like ink and shit that’s the official term yeah I don’t
12:16.320 –> 12:24.160
want I don’t want I don’t want this to end never never going home but I don’t
12:24.160 –> 12:27.760
want this to end now it feels like before the holiday I’ve got a campsite that
12:27.760 –> 12:32.720
seems to be available through the bank holiday I’ve got you know though it’s
12:32.720 –> 12:36.160
not you know it’s not the cheapest 27 pounds it’s worth it because it’s got
12:36.160 –> 12:39.880
all the facilities and it’s got like fridge and electricity and you’re all
12:39.880 –> 12:44.760
the stuff that tends to get you charged the only thing is showers are 20p and
12:44.760 –> 12:50.480
it’s a meter and so I had the fun yesterday last night of putting an
12:50.480 –> 12:55.720
extra 20p with wet hands into electricity meter I don’t that’s something
12:55.720 –> 13:00.520
that I think other generation of younger generations probably never
13:00.520 –> 13:05.720
experienced I did take me back to we didn’t have a meter at home by new
13:05.720 –> 13:11.280
people didn’t it’s yeah it takes me back to Charles at all pre my times but
13:11.280 –> 13:14.840
people had one of those old-school you know twist meters we put a coin in the
13:14.840 –> 13:19.760
twist I hate those because yeah you are literally touching metal things with
13:19.760 –> 13:25.680
your wet hands while standing on a wet floor lovely and conductive but I now
13:25.680 –> 13:30.600
know that you should put 40p in not 20p you don’t know until you put the first
13:30.600 –> 13:35.160
bit how long the little thing is going to go for I could have showed in 420
13:35.160 –> 13:42.680
really 40 so yeah lesson learned on that one that’s a hopefully I’ve got two in
13:42.680 –> 13:45.480
at once I hope so
13:47.160 –> 13:53.120
there’s a cruise they’re making a lot of noise earlier than they wanted to be
13:53.120 –> 13:57.400
fed it was a bit like silence of the lambs but cows version of me something
13:57.400 –> 14:01.040
horrible is happening apparently just probably wanting to be wanting their
14:01.040 –> 14:05.720
munchies like that oh there’s our munchies
14:05.720 –> 14:15.120
chef in here chef around here’s terrible but so yeah good 14 minutes shut up
14:15.120 –> 14:24.560
Tim might just post this as is but yeah it’s it’s a difficult one because I
14:24.560 –> 14:30.360
say if it’s gonna be like this today and tomorrow I don’t see a point of sticking
14:30.360 –> 14:41.280
around but I don’t really want to go home it’s a difficult one really you know
14:41.280 –> 14:47.760
it’s one of these things where you know it’s
14:47.760 –> 14:56.000
gonna shout at me probably not I always use my artist card it’s always a good
14:56.000 –> 15:05.880
one oh my not just shows what it looks like there’s a desire to be here anyway
15:05.880 –> 15:21.800
yes I don’t know if that’s official it’s such a shame there are ways no more
15:21.800 –> 15:29.920
because that would be amazing to see I can imagine back in the day because
15:29.920 –> 15:33.040
no one ever talks about that the fact that when they did the beaching cuts and
15:33.040 –> 15:38.720
before most of the beaching cuts that the mean that they talk about the rural
15:38.720 –> 15:43.600
communities being affected by you know not having the local stops but also the
15:43.600 –> 15:49.720
psycho the vanky word geography of odd-psycho psychology of the fact that
15:49.720 –> 15:55.440
you the sound of the train the train goes by at a certain time would have
15:55.440 –> 15:58.960
basically kind of for a long time regulated people’s lives it’d be like
15:58.960 –> 16:06.480
oh it must be 12 o’clock the trains the trains the trains are going by you know
16:06.480 –> 16:12.960
oh it’s you know seven o’clock you know oh and it must have been annoying to
16:12.960 –> 16:24.360
begin with and a real sort of thing on people’s lives but then people just it
16:24.360 –> 16:34.040
becomes part of your life you know and it becomes a thing you enjoy doing enjoy
16:34.040 –> 16:38.880
you and you would enjoy doing you look forward part of your day always it’s a
16:38.880 –> 16:44.520
regular sort of break in your day like oh oh that’s the zone so that’s the mail
16:44.520 –> 16:59.520
train that’s that’s better angle over really you’d prefer not to have their
16:59.520 –> 17:16.800
horrible tents in the way that would be nice um yes
17:16.800 –> 17:29.840
so you know I think in the rural communities and it’s been a weird one
17:29.840 –> 17:40.040
sort of have this you know this constant presence for like 100 150 years just to
17:40.040 –> 17:46.640
suddenly stop you know I’ve played in the podcast the slow train but I find as
17:46.640 –> 17:51.360
one which lists all these things and all these places of this funny or strange
17:51.360 –> 17:58.360
names doctor to have no more but it’s funny has a song from the 60s that was
17:58.360 –> 18:06.000
just kind of haha it’s become very poignant as we lose all these places
18:06.000 –> 18:12.600
they become you know they’ve lost time but interestingly this part of this
18:12.600 –> 18:19.960
stretch according to someone here is still here you know that it’s still in
18:19.960 –> 18:25.240
practice from private ownership but it’s still
18:27.800 –> 18:34.600
yes the cows are looking at me it’s still there so you could walk along it
18:34.600 –> 18:44.640
if you’re allowed and also it’s still you know exists part of it so they could
18:44.640 –> 18:52.000
easily do a short sort of steam railway or something or a short walk or you know
18:52.000 –> 18:58.200
guide you know sort of railway walk or you know a light railway because that
18:58.200 –> 19:04.860
would help this area because actually the links to this area are not good in a
19:04.860 –> 19:08.280
sense of you got the buses going up towards that line and you I think you
19:08.280 –> 19:12.560
got the buses go seating which is three seven eight one the other lot thing
19:12.560 –> 19:17.560
this big gap of the area and really it’s roads there are you really have to walk
19:17.560 –> 19:26.000
around the walk I’m doing part of that walk now you do have to walk kind of
19:26.000 –> 19:30.960
around the houses you know away from where you want to go either sort of
19:30.960 –> 19:36.480
south or you know you have to kind of walk in a boomerang in a way because
19:36.480 –> 19:43.800
there isn’t any direct pass from here to Lyme Regis so it would make sense if
19:43.800 –> 19:49.320
this was turning them into a track or if it was actually a railway brought back
19:49.320 –> 19:54.280
into a short stretch of it I don’t know if anyone’s tried but it would make a lot
19:54.280 –> 19:58.720
of sense because it’s amazing by that you’ve got you know a bit of it some
19:58.720 –> 20:10.360
it survives and it would work you know for a sort of you know also as a sort of
20:10.360 –> 20:18.120
transport link getting closer the coals so yeah it would work so 20 minutes
20:18.120 –> 20:27.000
but shut up yeah we shall see tomorrow with whether I continue or whether I
20:27.520 –> 20:34.080
yeah because there’s a couple people staying in the cottages some of
20:34.080 –> 20:38.520
there permanently some holiday people and I’m speaking with her she said
20:38.520 –> 20:53.840
yeah we’re about the cows bothering you yeah it would be a shame to end it early
20:53.840 –> 21:01.600
but you know and that’s it improves I mean I can do it did draw here it’s not
21:01.600 –> 21:05.160
ready in the moment which is good but you know unless we only have something a
21:05.160 –> 21:10.440
bit better and I’m going to go and see the Ammonite pavement today and do the
21:10.440 –> 21:14.640
whole sort of Lyme Regis you think there’s an art shop there I might time is
21:14.640 –> 21:20.040
it 12 30 hopefully get there because I need some if I am staying I need some
21:20.040 –> 21:25.520
cerulean but that’s a question of whether I am staying or not these to see
21:25.520 –> 21:33.000
what they’ve got in the art shop there’s a few things I need yeah the cows are
21:33.000 –> 21:42.080
growing me up yeah I’ll speak to you soon

What wasn’t great for the first few days was the weather. Initially it was nice when I arrived when I did the Lyra graphite of the viaduct (after that bottle of prosecco rescued from the other campers, not bad, I didn’t like it then but I like it now), and later the watercolour and again Lyra graphite of Lyme Regis bay at the engineering marvel that is East Cliff sea wall/undercliff walk.

But sadly by the second day the fog had followed me from Puncknowle making me wonder if I wanted to go home or not – something that became a theme over the next week.

As I painted the viaduct on the second day it was coming in and out of focus like I was drunk (no prosecco today!) because of the low lying fog. And then thinking the noisy people had gone, it turned out some of them hadn’t, they came out in front of me and were giggling and taking photos. I really was getting very Nuts In May with those people. I wasn’t happy with the painting, and looking back I think the gloomy weather didn’t help.

The fog was weird cos it was only on one level, bright sunshine above, gloom below. As I walked along towards Lyme after, going the Church Walk way and tried to take an almost vertical shortcut across a hill – glad I didn’t try and do that with my full pack! You could see above the fog layer. It just hovered there? Very strange.

Cannington Viaduct 2, Fountain Pen a s Watercolour, A3 Daler Paper.
Cannington Viaduct 2, Fountain Pen a s Watercolour, A3 Daler Paper.

I headed into Lyme Regis – or just Lyme as the locals call it – looking for Winsor Cerulean Blue watercolour paint as Lyme has a nice little art shop, and chatted to the owner about festivals. There is a small art scene in Lyme with galleries – I talked to Richard Kaye who used to DJ for Ash and is now an artist about creative block at his exhibition. I was feeling quite unhappy about my work, and the weather didn’t help.

I did have a steak dinner cooked on my camping stove that night to cheer myself up, a luxury I couldn’t afford in other places because of the high temperatures and lack of access to a fridge.\

The next day I headed to the Ammonite Pavement at Monmouth Beach to search for fossils, while thinking about my artwork and why I wasn’t happy with it. Wanting to break apart my creative block and not break apart some stone fossils.

I did find a lot of fossils, even though the tide was in – remember to check the tides, kids! Talking of kids, there was a lot of kids running around with hammers – usually an alarming sight, but they were trying to find fossils. So many split empty pebbles on that beach.

Transcript

00:00.000 –> 00:15.000
Well I came to see in the Ammonite Pavement but I assume it’s actually underwater because
00:15.000 –> 00:22.400
it’s high tide or coming up to high tide, I can’t see anything so it looks like a lot
00:22.400 –> 00:39.600
of it, the beach is underwater so yeah, the Ammonite Beach which is to the east of Lime
00:39.600 –> 00:48.720
Regis, I have to say they have spent a lot of time and money obviously trying to change
00:48.720 –> 00:55.160
the image of Lyme Regis, although it’s quite funny you go into Lyme Regis itself and you
00:55.160 –> 01:02.120
see a warning sign about elderly people which is, you know, we’re elderly people crossing
01:02.120 –> 01:11.240
the road, yes, everywhere but there’s a lot of art and a lot of, especially if you check
01:11.240 –> 01:22.040
out the Longmore, Longford Gardens, Longmore Gardens and Lister Gardens as I was speaking
01:22.040 –> 01:32.000
to an artist who used to work with Ash, the band, who’s played at Glastonbury, Richard
01:32.000 –> 01:39.240
Kay and he’s got an exhibition here and I’m sure he was like, who’s the strange one talking
01:39.240 –> 01:45.040
to me but yeah, I was talking to him about artistic crises and kind of working through
01:45.040 –> 01:49.240
them and stuff, well that was his suggestion and it’s a good suggestion and I know this,
01:49.240 –> 01:59.720
you work through it and you work, you work through it all but yeah, doesn’t really help
01:59.720 –> 02:06.680
you when you’re in it though, yeah, there’s several pieces a day which are, the drawing
02:06.680 –> 02:15.200
was okay with the viaduct, the painting was terrible partly because, well, the people
02:15.200 –> 02:23.400
I mentioned in the last podcast, can you guess what they did when I was sitting there away
02:23.400 –> 02:29.600
from them because they drove me out of the campsite because they were just so irritating.
02:29.600 –> 02:34.360
So what happens, they come out, some of them come out and start googling and taking pictures
02:34.360 –> 02:44.520
in front of the viaduct and being really loud and noxious there and I’m just like, yeah,
02:44.520 –> 02:48.480
it goes from nuts of May level to sort of sightseers level, I’m somewhere in between
02:48.480 –> 02:53.120
at the moment with those people because it’s just like, not only be rude to people but also
02:53.120 –> 03:00.080
just kind of follow the people who have escaped from you and then go and bother them by being
03:00.080 –> 03:04.920
irritating there as well and they all drove off as I said in the podcast but not all of
03:04.920 –> 03:05.920
them obviously.
03:05.920 –> 03:14.800
You might know who they were, I think it was them, it’s just like, so yeah that and the
03:14.800 –> 03:19.360
mist because of course they’re just constant mist, they get coming and going and coming
03:19.360 –> 03:25.640
and going so it’s kind of difficult to paint when things, you know, your visibility is
03:25.640 –> 03:31.000
going from, oh I can see the viaduct, oh no I can’t, I can just see the viaduct, I can
03:31.000 –> 03:41.520
see a viaduct more now, you know, I did do a painting on the seafront of another one
03:41.520 –> 03:45.960
but without the railing this time because the last one I did at the undercliffy hangy
03:45.960 –> 03:54.280
thing and this one was not too bad, it still doesn’t do justice, the glow me on the headland,
03:54.280 –> 03:59.680
the light hitting the chalk of the headlands, you know, all around the golden cap and all
03:59.680 –> 04:08.720
the places I’ve been, it’s a good thing to depict, just difficult but as I was saying
04:08.720 –> 04:16.600
to you that Richard, well I don’t know him but you know the guy in the exhibition
04:16.600 –> 04:24.280
at the Malt House, I’m kind of, all I’m trying to do is I’m trying to be more abstract in
04:24.280 –> 04:32.640
my, you know, artworks, so I’m trying to join my abstracts and my landscapes together so
04:32.640 –> 04:38.000
yeah the hammering is that it’s probably people trying to find, probably people trying
04:38.000 –> 04:46.160
to find ammonites and things, probably trying to be Mary Anning, probably need, probably need
04:46.160 –> 04:58.640
a bit more hammers, remember she nearly got killed in a rock fall, so hey, the dog was
04:58.640 –> 05:04.960
killed in a rock fall, I was actually at her house stood today which is where the museum
05:04.960 –> 05:14.480
is, the one I mentioned, I didn’t realise that, but yes, so yeah, I’m trying to combine
05:14.480 –> 05:23.920
the two and it’s not really working for me, oh yeah I’ve got a hammer, if I had a hammer,
05:23.920 –> 05:29.320
I’d try and hammer some fossils, that’s not exactly how you find fossils though, what
05:29.320 –> 05:44.560
is that, probably is, that my dear, yes it’s probably an ammonite, anyway, that’ll be good,
05:44.560 –> 05:52.080
Tim finds world record fossil finds while recording a podcast, you know, I did my rocky
05:52.080 –> 06:02.320
thing years ago, because my dad was an amateur geologist, so I used to collect rocks and
06:02.320 –> 06:07.280
I used to, you know, that’s the reason why there’s pictures of me walking on the side
06:07.280 –> 06:12.760
of a 45 degree rock face, before I could walk climbing there, because the reason why I was
06:12.760 –> 06:31.280
there is because my dad was looking for rocks, as you do, so yeah, I guess I missed the ammonite
06:31.280 –> 06:35.360
pavement, I’ll have to come back, but that’s the question is whether tomorrow’s weather
06:35.360 –> 06:41.600
will bring, I mean it’s sort of brightened up later but it’s still got that gloom, it’s
06:41.600 –> 06:46.120
still got that sort of solar killing gloom, which I have to keep, you know, taking the
06:46.120 –> 06:55.240
batteries and charging them up on the beans, look at that, but yeah, I was also speaking
06:55.240 –> 07:02.600
to the woman who runs the, I bought some cerulean blue because I was out of blue, we’re not
07:02.600 –> 07:10.040
out of blue, out of cerulean, and I was speaking to her about various things like art prices
07:10.040 –> 07:17.480
and you know, the state of the, you know, festivals and things, and yeah, that was a
07:17.480 –> 07:24.520
good conversation, so it was not about art conversations, so I do get the feeling that
07:24.520 –> 07:29.120
Lyme Regis with, you know, the art in the parks and the art trails and the stuff about
07:29.120 –> 07:34.600
Mary Anning and the Mary Anning statue, the new one I saw, they did the kind of thing
07:34.600 –> 07:40.960
that I said that Weymouth should do, I said it obviously not on my podcast, because there’s
07:40.960 –> 07:47.880
a new podcast, but if you read the blog posts on my blog, TJBaker.co.uk and look up the
07:47.880 –> 07:58.720
Jaunt series there, you will see me saying how there’s such a missed opportunity in Weymouth
07:58.720 –> 08:04.400
for the, you know, arts, there’s lots of empty venues, it feels like a place that could be
08:04.400 –> 08:10.800
a real, you know, arts hub, there could be real sort of, you know, something interesting
08:10.800 –> 08:16.320
there, because they do have the space for the studios, they do have the disused buildings,
08:16.320 –> 08:21.840
they do have things, maybe they don’t have the scene, but here the local council seems
08:21.840 –> 08:26.520
to be really harboring that local artist thing, which is good, and that’s what I’m saying,
08:26.520 –> 08:32.680
because it’s a bit like Folkestone here, or Margate, there is an element to that, they’re,
08:32.680 –> 08:39.000
you know, they’ve got kind of a gallery, the Town Mill Malthouse, they’ve got, you know,
08:39.000 –> 08:43.680
these spaces, and there are art galleries everywhere, although I have to say, part of
08:43.680 –> 08:52.400
my crisis has been when I’ve actually looked at some of the artworks, not only what they’re
08:52.400 –> 08:56.840
selling it for, but that’s not the originals they’re print, so, you know, 1890, 1770 is
08:56.840 –> 09:02.640
not, you know, it’s not kind of like, oh my god, it’ll be originals I’ll be more bothered
09:02.640 –> 09:12.520
by, but it’s more the fact what they’re doing, it’s so not what I’m doing, and I know certain
09:12.520 –> 09:17.600
people would say to me, oh Tim, you’ve got to do, you know, you’ve got to do your own
09:17.600 –> 09:21.240
path, you’ve got to do your own thing, but what, you know, when you’re kind of doing
09:21.240 –> 09:26.320
this thing of, oh, I want to sell my work, I want to do these things, I want to, you
09:26.320 –> 09:31.560
know, document my travels, I want, you know, somehow get either donations or money, or,
09:31.560 –> 09:39.000
you know, people interested in my work, and the podcast is part of that, and unfortunately
09:39.000 –> 09:42.680
I had a wet wish on for too long on it, which is not going about ranty things, I’m going
09:42.680 –> 09:46.960
to do my artwork, which is not helpful, but it’s all part of the thing, it’s all part
09:46.960 –> 09:53.240
of the struggle, but, you know, when you look at people’s works, it’s really hyper realistic,
09:53.240 –> 09:59.200
or kind of like the other way, very to the childish, but not kind of interesting in a
09:59.200 –> 10:06.320
sort of, you know, like, what I saw when I saw the things, the posters for that work
10:06.320 –> 10:11.480
by Richard Kay, I was interested, oh, that’s, you know, abstraction, I’ve not seen that
10:11.480 –> 10:14.680
here, that’s something different, there’s something different going on here, so that’s
10:14.680 –> 10:18.400
why I went to have a look, but you look at the other galleries, the small commercial
10:18.400 –> 10:24.440
ones, or the ones done by people like Richard Austin, who is the famous photographer around
10:24.440 –> 10:31.320
here, whenever there’s a big wave crashing picture in the press, it’s quite often him,
10:31.320 –> 10:35.120
you know, and he sells a lot of calendars, and, you know, he’s got his own shop here,
10:35.120 –> 10:41.680
and it’s, you know, and good on him, he’s a good photographer, but it’s not me, and
10:41.680 –> 10:47.000
looking at the watercolours, they’re all not me, you know, and I know that’s because that’s
10:47.000 –> 10:51.800
what sells, and that’s what people think is, in quotes, art, but it doesn’t help me when
10:51.800 –> 11:01.320
I’m trying to forge a path between what I find interesting, what I can do, and what
11:01.320 –> 11:09.360
I want to do, and what my future is, which is what, you know, these kind of Jaunts are
11:09.360 –> 11:16.040
a bit metaphysical like that, it’s kind of trying to find some balance here, but when
11:16.040 –> 11:21.920
you look at what the market is, either I’m so amazingly originally different than everyone
11:21.920 –> 11:27.600
at my work, or I’m completely way off the path, I think I’m probably the latter, and
11:27.600 –> 11:31.440
a friend of mine said, the same friend who usually tells me not to pay attention to all
11:31.440 –> 11:37.440
the things, is, you know, that my work is, I’m an artist’s artist, and I think that’s
11:37.440 –> 11:43.160
why artists can see the value of my work, because they know what I’m trying to do, and
11:43.160 –> 11:51.080
they know the struggle between representation and abstraction, and that what I do is, especially
11:51.080 –> 12:03.480
with energy and time, and kind of passion, and kind of trying to do things wet and wet
12:03.480 –> 12:10.000
in the moment, it’s not easy, I think it’s kind of, it can go wrong and go very right
12:10.000 –> 12:18.800
quite a lot of time, and, you know, it’s weird balancing it, you know, ironically the stuff
12:18.800 –> 12:23.320
is very hyperalistic, using my photographs and someone’s there in the evenings going
12:23.320 –> 12:30.240
drawing, you know, dotting each and every dot, and, you know, sort of doing that kind
12:30.240 –> 12:37.320
of very representational thing, in a way that’s easier, because you just follow what’s, you
12:37.320 –> 12:45.200
know, what’s in front of you, you’re not making those kind of creative, chaotic decisions,
12:45.200 –> 12:49.320
you’re not having to deal with something going wrong in the moment, you’re just going, okay,
12:49.320 –> 12:54.760
this is just colour, we mix it exactly, match, match, match, you know, whereas I’m much more
12:54.760 –> 13:05.240
instinctive and much more kind of, I don’t know, I don’t know how to describe my work,
13:05.240 –> 13:12.000
it’s very much coming from an instant reaction, on plein air, so in the environment, with
13:12.000 –> 13:16.560
all that entails, whether it’s, you know, it starts to rain, and it’s got little dots
13:16.560 –> 13:23.720
in it, you know, or it’s, I’m getting nearly blown off a cliff, you know, not working from
13:23.720 –> 13:29.360
photographs, not, and very much a reaction between what’s in front of me at that moment,
13:29.360 –> 13:37.840
and my mood, and how I’m feeling, and, you know, a whole load of things in there, but
13:37.840 –> 13:43.280
I do feel that it doesn’t really sometimes come out of the work, or it does, a lot of
13:43.280 –> 13:47.600
people are not really getting it, so, it’s kind of weird, because people say, oh, you’re
13:47.600 –> 13:50.920
going to see my work, and it’s, you know, sometimes I’ll show it, I mean, there was
13:50.920 –> 13:56.280
a girl at the Anchor Inn who was, they were very impressed by my work, but it’s, I’m
13:56.280 –> 14:00.440
feeling embarrassed about it in this trip, because there’s a few people as I would go,
14:00.440 –> 14:04.120
okay, you know, I think this is good, or this could be better, but I think this is the best
14:04.120 –> 14:11.120
I can do in a situation, because of the brown grass and stuff like that, but there are bits
14:11.120 –> 14:17.960
which I like, oh dear, you know, and I felt that the first trip had a higher hit rate
14:17.960 –> 14:25.000
actually, there hasn’t been a sort of a Corfe Castle, or a Mupe Bay, there hasn’t been,
14:25.000 –> 14:31.920
you know, the lows of the Jaunt 2, where it just didn’t work at all, and that’s partly
14:31.920 –> 14:39.040
why I bought it, because after six days, I was cold, I was unhappy, and also the work
14:39.040 –> 14:47.880
just wasn’t worth suffering for, because, you know, it’s worth it, if the work’s good,
14:47.880 –> 14:56.400
you know, but, you know, I’m having to kind of rough it, that’s fine, but what the problem
14:56.400 –> 15:01.120
is, is that the work then wasn’t good, so we haven’t got the lows of that, I mean, some
15:01.120 –> 15:04.920
of the stuff of that, I posted a few, some of it, some of it I’ve never posted, because
15:04.920 –> 15:12.000
it was so, so bad, I was a slight embarrassed having my sketchbook, so there’s nothing
15:12.000 –> 15:18.040
like that, there’s a few bits, maybe, but nothing greatly, but there isn’t anything
15:18.040 –> 15:24.560
like, oh wow, so there’s the old one or two that might maybe be like, okay, this is pretty
15:24.560 –> 15:31.880
good, or this is good, you know, I might reconsider this to be actually quite good, but there’s
15:31.880 –> 15:39.880
no Mupe Bay or Corfe Castles in this, where I felt I was like, yeah, this is really on
15:39.880 –> 15:49.520
form for me, so I don’t know, I really don’t know, it’s a bit like, I mean, that’s the
15:49.520 –> 15:57.000
part of the reason for the thinking of going home, because although, yes, you’ve got to
15:57.000 –> 16:00.280
keep working out it, there is a point where you are just hitting yourself, you’re head
16:00.280 –> 16:06.560
against a brick wall, and that can be useful, but it also can be quite destructive, quite
16:06.560 –> 16:11.920
a lot of obvious reasons, you don’t want to give yourself brain damage, and the problem
16:11.920 –> 16:21.200
being that the weather doesn’t help, I mean, I can work within certain, you know, it doesn’t
16:21.200 –> 16:29.440
have to all be sunny, 16 sort of happy, happy, happy, you know, blue skies and green, but
16:29.440 –> 16:37.400
I struggle with this kind of weather, it’s like, I can do the extremes, I can, you know,
16:37.400 –> 16:44.200
when it’s really moody and grey, yep, there I can do that, if it’s sunny, yeah, I can
16:44.200 –> 16:53.000
do that, when it’s just grey, I find it hard to be inspired by what, any of it, and also
16:53.000 –> 17:00.800
I find it really hard to paint, because it’s all about gradations of, of things, it’s all
17:00.800 –> 17:08.840
about, you know, sort of very purpley greens and very sort of, yeah, very soft things,
17:08.840 –> 17:16.480
and that’s just not that soft, I can do it, but soft and gentle is generally not my work,
17:16.480 –> 17:23.160
it’s not what I do, although I can force myself to do it, but it’s a struggle for me, some
17:23.160 –> 17:27.440
people, they naturally come to it and they’re all, you know, all very ethereal watercolours
17:27.440 –> 17:32.640
and it’s all very, they can do miss scenes, no problem, I know, I’ve tried to do miss
17:32.640 –> 17:39.920
scenes many times before, and they’ve come out shit, so, yeah, it’s not, it’s not easy
17:39.920 –> 17:46.840
depicting missed, yes and no, I mean, you can just go, I’ll use less paint, I’ll use
17:46.840 –> 17:52.800
less, you know, I’ll, you know, it’s lighter, so less things, but no, it’s a little bit
17:52.800 –> 17:57.800
more complicated than that, it’s kind of, all the colours change and you get a look,
17:57.800 –> 18:04.080
everything’s sort of purpley, bluey, grey, yeah, and it generally doesn’t actually create
18:04.080 –> 18:11.920
amazing photos and pictures to paint, either, because when it’s all grey and, yeah, it doesn’t
18:11.920 –> 18:16.600
really stand out as being, oh wow, oh wow, that’s really good, you know, you even got
18:16.600 –> 18:23.760
the contrast, it’s all just grey, and so yes, if this continues tomorrow, I’ll probably
18:23.760 –> 18:32.600
head home, because it’s just, there’s a limit to what I can do, you know, I can only hang
18:32.600 –> 18:39.600
around coffee shops and tea rooms and talking to people in art shops and not in can’t go on
18:39.600 –> 18:50.280
so much, it is, yeah, it, I’m here to work, I’m not here to hang around waiting for some
18:50.280 –> 18:57.520
change in the weather, but you know what will happen, of course, if I do go tomorrow, Friday
18:57.520 –> 19:05.560
it’ll be amazing and we’ll have the most bakingest, hottest bank hardy ever, but yeah, I mean
19:05.560 –> 19:11.920
I have a reason to come back earlier now, so there’s a friend of mine who’s coming
19:11.920 –> 19:21.720
to town suddenly, so I meet up with him, so I might, you know, there’s a reason to come
19:21.720 –> 19:28.600
back at least after the bank hardy, unless I feel that it’s working here and it’s worth
19:28.600 –> 19:36.560
not seeing him over, but I think, you know, I think I will come back over the, you know,
19:36.560 –> 19:42.600
after the bank hardy or, or kind of towards the end of it, it’s probably best to come
19:42.600 –> 19:59.960
back on, you know, just after, but yeah, so it’s weird because I think my first trip
19:59.960 –> 20:08.040
was such a random kind of made up thing where it was just, it was new things, although not
20:08.040 –> 20:13.520
completely new, but new enough that I was like, and, you know, it was all exciting
20:13.520 –> 20:20.080
and it’s all like, oh wow, I feel like now, even though I’m in new areas and the new things
20:20.080 –> 20:27.120
and stuff I’ve not done before, like I’ve never drawn a viaduct, some bridges, but all
20:27.120 –> 20:34.960
I’ve done, and this is very much a different kind of coast, you know, it started Jurassic
20:34.960 –> 20:41.720
Coast, but it’s kind of very much a different kind of world, it feels very different, it’s
20:41.720 –> 20:48.400
on the edge of Devon, so it’s kind of like going into new territory, and that is exciting,
20:48.400 –> 20:56.640
but it’s also, what worries me is I’m not really, I’m not really that excited, it’s
20:56.640 –> 21:03.080
weird, it’s kind of a weird kind of like, oh, because my artwork is not really inspiring
21:03.080 –> 21:08.120
me, so what worries me is, you know, going to new amazing places and doing shit artwork
21:08.120 –> 21:14.840
of them, that’s what bothers me, and it’s not the places for all, it’s me, so anyway,
21:14.840 –> 21:18.920
I’m just going to go wander down there now that the person with the hammer has disappeared,
21:18.920 –> 21:22.880
very worrying, it probably sounded like people murdering babies in the background because
21:22.880 –> 21:27.680
there’s like so much of hammering and child children crying, anyway, people doing their
21:27.680 –> 21:33.160
Mary Anning impression, and I’ll speak to you soon.

The ammonites were odd to me at first, I thought someone had been drawing them on with white or gold pen (I still think a few of them might have been fakes) but there was enough of them to realise that they were real fossils. The Ammonites are 199 Million years old (!) and yes the pavement proper was under the sea – although I saw some of it as I left but I was cold then as the tide was going down – there are plenty of Ammonites on that beach. I headed back to Lyme along the sea front and drew the various visitors to the beach sitting on a bench while I rested.

Lyme Regis Beach, Fountain Pen and wash, A4 Flat White sketchbook.
Lyme Regis Beach, Fountain Pen and wash, A4 Flat White sketchbook.

And either that night or a previous night, I painted this view of the bay. I am proud of this one, I don’t do enough ‘freestyle’ watercolours without lines, although there is sgraffito here. I think I captured the odd combination of the purple-grey hovering skies, and the green sea. I then had the long trek back to the campsite – because the X51 stopped at 7pm, so if I stayed in Lyme later I had a long 2 mile walk along the coast to Cannington. Not much traffic as it’s along quiet roads and part of the South West Coastal path but tiring especially the hill around Ware, around a house called the Crow’s Nest, a sudden unwelcome incline.

Lyme Regis Bay, Watercolour and sgraffito, A4 Flat White Sketchbook.
Lyme Regis Bay, Watercolour and sgraffito, A4 Flat White Sketchbook.

I noted that there were a few other buses running along the Ware road from Lyme that weren’t First buses, even the owners of the campsite were unaware of the 378 to Seaton run by Axe Valley Mini Travel (AVMT). There wasn’t even an official bus stop – it stops outside Pinhay House, which I think is being converted to a retirement home!

The weather being far better, sunshine I headed to Seaton (not Seatown, very confusing) which was my first foray into Devon – not ever, used to holiday in Devon as a kid, but certainly never in this part of the world and first time on a Jaunt. Does One Go Mad In Devon? Well bored more like, and then stranded…and then attacked by dogs….and then enticed.

I described it as ‘the seaside town they forgot to close down, but glad they did cos they have a nice big Tesco.’ which pretty much describes the place, it’s very different to Lyme, a faded and seemingly quite poor seaside town. You can see why looters ravaged the wreck of MSC Napoli which I remembered from 16 years ago, and the anchor is still here to remember that fact.

Nice wave statue, and I loved the massive Tesco which had the sort of gluten-free and packet food that the previous Spars, Coops and Waitroses could only dream of. The area is not big on big or even medium-sized supermarkets unless you go here or Axmouth (not Exmouth!), or the big ASDA at Bridport which isn’t that big tbh. Even Dorchester seemed a bit slight in this regard. So it was welcome to stock up here. I still have some of the packaged food, cos I didn’t get to eat it (the next part will explain why).

So after plundering Tesco like it was a shipwrecked tanker, I decided to walk back to Lyme with all my Loot. It was the plan anyway to walk back (unlike later trips to Seaton, *ahem*) the 7 miles but I wasn’t planning on lugging my shopping with me. So I walked to Axmouth – which is lovely btw, and I’ve just found out there’s a wrecked medieval caravel boat in the mud of that river that’s listed searching for the Napoli – and started the Seaton to Lyme Undercliff coastal walk from there.

Well not exactly there, because of those parasites of the landscape – yup golfers. I had to detour inland and go past the clubhouse (we serve drinks – nope, spurned!) and through the golf course along a path before it joined the coast. This was quite steep and quite hot, I was glad of the drink I bought in Axmouth at a small cafe…but then realised I had to carry it to the next bin. Which turned out to be over 7 miles later.

After a mile or so of fairly pleasant track walking next to fences and hedges – not much of a seaview – I found The Sign.

The Sign ominously warned:

Please note that it takes approximately 3 1/2 – 4 hours to walk to Lyme Regis.
The terrain can be difficult and walking arduous.
There is no permitted access to the sea or inland along the stretch of this path.

There had been no prior warning of The Sign nor any hint earlier of this warning…but I’d been walking over a mile, so I was invested now, so decided to risk it. Now dear reader, usually in my travels, and other people’s writing this would foreshadow where It Horribly Went Wrong and be the start of a Bad Walk. No, what started was possibly the most boring coastal walk in Britain. And I’ve done a fair few!

So worried by the sign and the four hours I decided to keep going and not dawdle much, which is good cos there wasn’t much to see anyway.

The Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliff was formed by various massive landslides and even was visited by Queen Victoria after the famous one of 1839 which created a new island called Goat Island (sheesh things must have been boring back in Victorian days, along with the Burning Cliff . I looked at the Island and just saw more scrubby landslip. Meh). The arduous path was far from arduous unless you include ‘arduously boring’ in that definition, and compared to the cliffs of Lulworth it was about as taxing as walking in a rather overgrown forest path in Surrey. Seriously Box Hill is Everest in comparison.

Transcript

00:00.000 –> 00:18.000
Seaton, not Seatown, well, Seaton, not Seatown. I’m not exactly sure it’s people in Seaton?
00:18.000 –> 00:24.000
Like a Sea town, that calls itself Seaton, or Seatown, make a differentiation between here and
00:24.000 –> 00:31.000
Seaton, between here and Seaton, but I am in Seaton, which is actually in Devon, so I’m now
00:31.000 –> 00:42.000
broke through to Devon. And, yes, it is, I’ve decided to walk back, lots of heavy shopping
00:42.000 –> 00:55.000
mostly along the coast to Lyme Regis, but of course looking at the, yes, of course
00:55.000 –> 01:03.000
looking at the, but this is the problem of looking, Google does have an indication of,
01:03.000 –> 01:12.000
maybe I should have looked on it on OsmAnd actually, of height of, see, but it didn’t look like
01:12.000 –> 01:18.000
there was lots of Uppy downies. I can see one here, it’s very uppy, but then I’ll probably
01:18.000 –> 01:22.000
have to walk up as I’ll find the coast path, I don’t know where the coast path is here.
01:22.000 –> 01:33.000
I assume usually, not always, what might be more obvious when I get to Axmouth, which is,
01:33.000 –> 01:43.000
I assume the Mouth of the River Axe, which is just by Seaton, where I’m going to go now,
01:43.000 –> 01:53.000
I assume it will be more obvious from here, where or if there is any concept of a coast
01:53.000 –> 02:06.000
path, but we will find out, you know. But yes, Seaton, this person, is very much like,
02:06.000 –> 02:13.000
it reminds me of Hythe, or some of the, I’ll try and remember the name of, not Hastings
02:13.000 –> 02:20.000
or Folkestone, because Folkestone has gone through a bit of a revival, Hastings is a bit, you
02:20.000 –> 02:26.000
know, a bit shabby in places, but it’s got this art stuff, you know, so some of the other
02:26.000 –> 02:33.000
ones nearby, this place that appears reminds me of Hythe, though Hythe doesn’t pretend to
02:33.000 –> 02:39.000
have very much at all, sort of trying to be a seaside town, but this is definitely a seaside
02:39.000 –> 02:50.000
one, the classic slated, folding apart seaside town, you know, that’s kind of very, very
02:50.000 –> 02:58.000
rough around the edges, though it does have a big test go. This is weird, because I actually
02:58.000 –> 03:03.000
went and looked when I was shopping in Lyme Regis, I was like, I’ll just check if Seaton
03:03.000 –> 03:06.000
actually has some shops, maybe we’ll go to Seaton and get shop there, and all that came
03:06.000 –> 03:14.000
up was Spar and Londis. So I got a few things in Lyme, thinking, oh yeah, I’m going to get
03:14.000 –> 03:20.000
very bored with the selection, it’s going to be Pasta, Pasta, Pasta and Pasta, which
03:20.000 –> 03:25.000
is good, because I have a lot of Pasta, I’ve told you repeatedly, but I was a bit like
03:25.000 –> 03:34.000
that, and then got here and the bus goes past a massive test goes. Like, I kind of understand
03:34.000 –> 03:42.000
a little bit of when someone from the Amazon rainforest walks into a supermarket now, because
03:42.000 –> 03:50.000
having spent two weeks away from any really large or kind of interesting sort of, you
03:50.000 –> 03:57.000
know, what in London would be called a normal supermarket? Old, tiny versions of supermarkets,
03:57.000 –> 04:02.000
or even tiny little shops, have just scrabble around for this bit here, this bit here, or
04:02.000 –> 04:11.000
you know, go to this shop, this might have something. Again and again, and here we are,
04:11.000 –> 04:18.000
massive test, and it was like, oh my God, choice! things! the things have things! I can actually
04:18.000 –> 04:22.000
have food, you actually have a free from section, not only do you have a free from section,
04:22.000 –> 04:26.000
which quite a few places do actually have a tiny one, but you actually have choice in
04:26.000 –> 04:35.000
that free from section, my God. Yeah, for that kind of moment, oh yes, so I now have a very
04:35.000 –> 04:40.000
big heavy bag, which I’m going to try and take over, a big cliff, that’s probably not a good
04:40.000 –> 04:47.000
planning, but I do have an exit strategy of the 378, because I came here on the 378 bus,
04:47.000 –> 04:57.000
now this is where we get out of First World, and into other bus world, AVMT, Axe Valley,
04:57.000 –> 05:02.000
Mini Transport I think stands for, they run several buses from here, and it seems like
05:02.000 –> 05:12.000
Seaton is the next hub, not Lyme Regis, because that’s only on the 378 and the X53 if you
05:12.000 –> 05:19.000
want, because that’s fine if you want to go up to Axe Minster and Yovolway, but it seems
05:19.000 –> 05:25.000
like the next gateway is here, or around here, because there’s lots of buses and there’s
05:25.000 –> 05:28.000
something called Dartline, I’m not going to call it Dartline, and the first instance
05:28.000 –> 05:36.000
of the evil bus company who we hate most of all, Stagecoach, oh there’s someone launching
05:36.000 –> 05:47.000
a boat here, Stagecoach, and so yes, they tend to be around Exeter, Taunton
05:47.000 –> 05:54.000
way, so obviously we’re getting into Stagecoach world, and it was a nine bus and that went
05:54.000 –> 06:04.000
to Taunton, and extra I think, so yes I think Seaton is probably the next kind of hub, and
06:04.000 –> 06:10.000
it really looks really interesting further round to Beer and Branskin I think it is, so
06:10.000 –> 06:16.000
I think it’ll be a good next sort of, that doesn’t mean that we necessarily have to stay
06:16.000 –> 06:25.000
here, this is where I’ll probably come and capture the buses from, and it uses a little
06:25.000 –> 06:31.000
hub, and next time I might need to come here a bit further down nearby, and the way that
06:31.000 –> 06:35.000
I was staying near Bridport, and I was using that as a sort of hub, and the way I was doing
06:35.000 –> 06:41.000
the same with Waymouth, you don’t have to stay in that place, but you can stay nearby,
06:41.000 –> 06:47.000
get buses in, and change there, and you’ve got a little bit, so Seaton is a good interchange
06:47.000 –> 07:02.000
for a whole bunch of buses, but yeah, it’s not, it’s a world away from Lyme Regis I have to say,
07:02.000 –> 07:07.000
anyway I’ve got to go now, I’ve got to go and walk over a cliff with lots of food in my bag,
07:07.000 –> 07:10.000
and I’ll take a picture of a ridge, so I’ll speak to you soon.
07:10.000 –> 07:27.000
Thank you. Yes, an addendum to my previous bit, I’m walking to Lyme Regis, and it said,
07:27.000 –> 07:32.000
I came up with a sign, I should take a picture of it, came up with a sign saying, this is
07:32.000 –> 07:38.000
a three and a half, four hour walk, yeah that’s okay, and it’s arduous, and it’s really, you
07:38.000 –> 07:49.000
know, it’s really hard going, and so far I’ve come across a bench, you know, this is fairly,
07:49.000 –> 07:56.000
you know, this is not arduous at all, I mean, I admit there might be bits of it that are arduous,
07:56.000 –> 08:03.000
but if a lot of it’s like this, then it’s fine, it’s very hard to say what their idea of arduous,
08:03.000 –> 08:09.000
but what was the interesting thing is that there was no way out, although to be really honest,
08:09.000 –> 08:17.000
if I have to go through a wheat field, like I saw earlier, to get out of here, then I will.
08:17.000 –> 08:24.000
But yeah, what’s probably completely confusing in the last section was I said aximus,
08:24.000 –> 08:33.000
yeah aximus, not ex-mus, it seems like this whole area is for the things which are like, sound
08:33.000 –> 08:41.000
like other things, so sea-tow and seeding, or might both be seeding, axmus, eggmus, you know,
08:41.000 –> 08:48.000
they’re not all milk, not all milk-plash, we’re having a showy’s day I think, it’s Thursday
08:48.000 –> 08:54.000
and I think the milk-plash show is on because there were rain bosses from the line Regis,
08:54.000 –> 08:59.000
which is why I was a bit panicked about where I’d get my bus because I’d closed the main road.
08:59.000 –> 09:09.000
I’ve dented my phone screen with my poor screen, I think I haven’t cracked it, I’ve just dented it.
09:09.000 –> 09:17.000
I found out the hardware that it’s a hard service but it’s not Gorilla Glass, it scratches.
09:17.000 –> 09:23.000
Ah, cheapy phones, otherwise very good.
09:23.000 –> 09:34.000
XF3, XF3 Poco, Xiaomi, Xiaomi, Xiaomi, Meow, whatever the word is called.
09:34.000 –> 09:41.000
Be careful with that screen now, it seems to have a plastic covering over the front,
09:41.000 –> 09:51.000
I think I’ll scratch that, I don’t think it doesn’t feel like glass, so I think it’s kind of like a protective covering on top.
09:51.000 –> 09:54.000
Hopefully it doesn’t fuck the phone up.
09:54.000 –> 10:00.000
But yes, so I was going to record this on the little bench I found, took a picture of it,
10:00.000 –> 10:03.000
and I really wish I took a picture of that side.
10:03.000 –> 10:11.000
I was like, what hardware scale are we talking about?
10:11.000 –> 10:21.000
I think we’re at scaling K2, Everest, Walking Ben Nevis, Golden Cap, Mupe Bay,
10:21.000 –> 10:25.000
because there’s a bit of Mupe Bay, even I bottled down because it was just like,
10:25.000 –> 10:36.000
up a cliff, up a cliff, literally steps up a cliff, I’m not joking, like one tumble and you are dead type shit.
10:36.000 –> 10:39.000
I’m not referring to Tumblr.
10:39.000 –> 10:42.000
Yeah, so what scale?
10:42.000 –> 10:52.000
Because I’ve felt experience to this shit, but just saying it’s an arduous, I can’t remember the word,
10:52.000 –> 10:55.000
not gruelling, but it’s very similar to that.
10:55.000 –> 11:01.000
Arduous and, you know, maybe I’ll find the sign online somewhere, I wish I took a picture of it.
11:01.000 –> 11:04.000
I was just like, okay.
11:04.000 –> 11:13.000
Also, to tell you this, just to turn off to Axmouth, you know, you don’t tell you that the bottom of the hill
11:13.000 –> 11:18.000
you just climbed up, because that was rather steep and horrible, through a golf course.
11:18.000 –> 11:26.000
So they don’t tell you then, so I think there’s a likelihood I won’t actually get any work done today.
11:26.000 –> 11:31.000
Or if it is, it’ll be very quick, because obviously, because of that sign, I’m like, hmm,
11:31.000 –> 11:36.000
I’d be rather angry if I get to fucking line ridges and I’m like, was that it?
11:36.000 –> 11:41.000
You know, with hours to spare and go.
11:41.000 –> 11:44.000
Oh, I could have stopped and done somewhere.
11:44.000 –> 11:51.000
But you’ll find out in the next podcast listener with the neuro jeopardy,
11:51.000 –> 11:58.000
because I’m a bit like the last one, yes, I’m staying.
11:58.000 –> 12:05.000
But yeah, I’ve got this shopping from the big Tesco in my bag as well, which is not helping.
12:05.000 –> 12:11.000
So we’ll find out how scary it is.
12:11.000 –> 12:14.000
I mean, seriously, they’ve got fences.
12:14.000 –> 12:16.000
I’m looking at one here.
12:16.000 –> 12:18.000
Danger cliff edge.
12:18.000 –> 12:19.000
Sheer drop.
12:19.000 –> 12:20.000
There’s signs.
12:20.000 –> 12:21.000
There’s a fence.
12:21.000 –> 12:22.000
We have benches.
12:22.000 –> 12:24.000
We have signs even.
12:24.000 –> 12:26.000
And mark paths.
12:26.000 –> 12:29.000
This is just not.
12:29.000 –> 12:31.000
This is just not Lulworth.
12:31.000 –> 12:37.000
The impression that Devon would shut down most of Lulworth and Mupe Bay and Durdle Door.
12:37.000 –> 12:39.000
We just called it unsafe.
12:39.000 –> 12:41.000
I’m really healthy and safe to go mad.
12:41.000 –> 12:42.000
Randy on you.
12:42.000 –> 12:50.000
But seriously, their idea of, I mean, golden cap was, you know, hard to walk up.
12:50.000 –> 12:52.000
And then you’ve got the Stonebarrow Hill afterwards.
12:52.000 –> 12:54.000
That was like, that was difficult.
12:54.000 –> 12:55.000
One, two, one.
12:55.000 –> 12:57.000
And one of them is like, okay.
12:57.000 –> 13:00.000
Two hour.
13:00.000 –> 13:06.000
But even though they had benches on them, even though they were, I’ve said this in the podcast,
13:06.000 –> 13:09.000
even though they were just like, okay.
13:09.000 –> 13:17.000
You know, it wasn’t the real wild further up the coast where it’s just like, you don’t know what the path is.
13:17.000 –> 13:20.000
There’s no marks on the path.
13:20.000 –> 13:31.000
You might find, you’re going to follow, maybe find those little, not signs, but those little, you know, bollardy, wooden bollardy things with the thing on.
13:31.000 –> 13:33.000
And that’s it.
13:33.000 –> 13:36.000
You’ve just got to not fall off the edge.
13:36.000 –> 13:39.000
And there’s not a fence to be found.
13:39.000 –> 13:42.000
So yeah, I find it funny, their idea of arduous.
13:42.000 –> 13:44.000
So we’ll see if that’s right or not.
13:44.000 –> 13:49.000
And I say, you might be famous last words about this.
13:49.000 –> 13:53.000
I might go, oh my God, I really wish I hadn’t done this.
13:53.000 –> 13:58.000
But I’m going to get back to Lyme Regis and I’ve got all my shopping with me.
13:58.000 –> 14:00.000
I’ve got all my people with me.
14:00.000 –> 14:03.000
Yeah, the preset’s great.
14:03.000 –> 14:04.000
And I’ve got to get back.
14:04.000 –> 14:08.000
So I’m committed now, although I can go back.
14:08.000 –> 14:10.000
In the past, I’ve done that.
14:10.000 –> 14:13.000
I just kept going and I’ve gotten myself into more trouble.
14:13.000 –> 14:16.000
But here it’s just like, yeah.
14:16.000 –> 14:32.000
So I better go.

And even worse – there was nothing to see but trees. And more trees. And even more trees. You can’t leave the path cos it’s so overgrown, it’s not safe (well not exactly). The odd ruin hidden by overgrowth. Apparently the place was farmed by sheep farmers until around a hundred years ago, where it was abandoned and then overgrown.

Apparently The French Lieutenant’s Woman was partly set and filmed here. A boring weepy film for a boring place, who knew?

And then, half way through at Rousdon, I stumbled onto a road. With a parked car. And a path down to the Rousdon Cliffs/beach.

Yes, The Sign lies at the last paragraph as well.

You can get off the path at Rousdon, and I suspect at the later inland path as well, via the former Peek Frean estate (yes the biscuit people) which has now become another gated estate . I spoke to the couple when they came back while I was drawing the ruin of the pump house. You can get down to the beach via a road with a gate with an entry button, no questions asked because no-one knows who lives at those fancy gated places cos no-one ever talks to their neighbours!

And you can also get down to the beach despite the warning sign – yes another one – telling you it’s ‘private and dangerous’. The locals just ignore both because they’ve always had access for generations, and again, the signs lie. Quite right.

Half Way Ruin, Rousdon Estate, Fountain Pen and wash, A4 Flat White Sketchbook.
Half Way Ruin, Rousdon Estate, Fountain Pen and wash, A4 Flat White Sketchbook.

The pump house, as well as a few of the ruins around here were turn of the 20th century remains of early electricity generating for the estate house further up the cliff. Now nothing remains in unaRousdon bar a few silly lying signs and a road.

After the drawing I went on and bumped into a guy in his 20’s who was red-faced and stressed out, who was coming the other way, I had 3 miles to go. He assumed the rest was difficult and said ‘it’s hard yes?’ and I said…nope. He was surprised, and I was proud that younger people were struggling with it, and I was not.

Transcript

00:00.000 –> 00:23.460
Well I must be about halfway through this arduous walk from sitting to Lyme and I bumped
00:23.460 –> 00:27.520
into somebody coming the way and they said oh yes there are some really rough bits and
00:27.520 –> 00:32.160
how’s the rest, was it really bad and I went no it’s a cakewalk you know if you’ve
00:32.160 –> 00:38.360
done govngap or you’ve done Durdle Door it’s nothing you know and it’s not, most people
00:38.360 –> 00:44.480
will be able to cope with that and yeah I mean we’ve got like signs every, sometimes
00:44.480 –> 00:49.200
there’s signs every hundred yards usually like every half mile or so you’ll see a coast
00:49.200 –> 00:53.120
path there which is a bit weird because why did I spend all that time saying coast path
00:53.120 –> 00:57.880
this way when you actually can’t go anywhere else because you’ve got a cliff one side and
00:57.880 –> 01:03.760
then you’ve got you know to see the other but you can’t see anything because you’re
01:03.760 –> 01:08.680
actually walking through, do you imagine maybe trekking to the moons of Endor with less
01:08.680 –> 01:16.880
earwoks and maybe earwoks might have been being here, that’s kind of it really, very
01:16.880 –> 01:22.440
big trees, a few of them fall down obviously it’s not so remote that people can’t get
01:22.440 –> 01:34.920
chainsaws here, that’s it, there’s not really much coast, for a coastal path it’s very uncoasty
01:34.920 –> 01:38.640
so what they should have said rather than saying it’s a rather arduous path they should
01:38.640 –> 01:44.760
have gone it’s quite boring, if you want to see the coast just give it a miss because
01:44.760 –> 01:50.560
yeah at the moment I’m like well my feet might hurt at the end of this but it’s nothing,
01:50.560 –> 01:57.080
I’ve gone through harder walks in Surrey than this and seriously so yeah I mean it
01:57.080 –> 02:03.920
reminds me, what it is is basically the undercliff so what you’re walking along is the bit that’s
02:03.920 –> 02:11.920
created by the land slips and then it’s grown up with lots of trees and I think I heard
02:11.920 –> 02:15.840
a woodpecker earlier, I wasn’t sure if the tree was about to fall on me but there was
02:15.840 –> 02:26.280
this sort of knocking sound in the tree but I couldn’t see it, I tried to see it but yeah
02:26.280 –> 02:32.080
I’ve seen one tree I would have drawn but I didn’t want to stop because of the arduous
02:32.080 –> 02:39.280
journey ahead and if I skipped out on all these things because of the arduous journey
02:39.280 –> 02:44.280
I’ll be rather pissed off because I’m half expecting to get the lion and go well where
02:44.280 –> 02:50.640
was this arduous journey but yeah I mean there are bits which is a bit scrabbly, one here
02:50.640 –> 02:55.440
which is down some tree roots which is a bit scrabbly I’ll be careful down there but a
02:55.440 –> 03:00.080
lot of it has steps, there’s benches and signs and you can’t go wrong, you can’t wander
03:00.080 –> 03:11.760
off a path or anything so yeah it just doesn’t say too brutal, it just doesn’t say arduous
03:11.760 –> 03:17.400
to me so far but I mean we’re about sort of, must be like four or five miles in, I haven’t
03:17.400 –> 03:22.640
hit it yet, I mean I was two miles about maybe one or two miles ago and I’ve been making
03:22.640 –> 03:27.960
good progress because it’s all through shaded forest so you know what I call arduous is
03:27.960 –> 03:36.600
being on the headland, blasted by wind, bored by the sun, wet rain, you know almost blown
03:36.600 –> 03:42.680
off the cliff and struggling out stone paths, what I don’t call arduous is walking through
03:42.680 –> 03:54.360
a forest with mostly earth, track in the shade, that’s like yeah so anyway we’ll see, we’ll
03:54.360 –> 04:02.640
see I’ll report back, I will report back and hopefully I won’t be like oh come save me,
04:02.640 –> 04:08.080
not that I could get any signal, obviously down here it’s not very much signal down here
04:08.080 –> 04:18.280
but my own signal maybe, no data signal but in Seaton it was like 2G, it was H+, it was
04:18.280 –> 04:26.520
2G or barely 3G, so I’m doing the scary bit while talking on my phone, that’s how scary
04:26.520 –> 04:44.480
it is, scary bit over, yeah, you’ve heard me sort of puffing away, you know walking
04:44.480 –> 04:51.760
up things, this is a fucking cakewalk so far, so I’m sure I will eat my words and go oh
04:51.760 –> 05:00.480
yes there was a thing at you know X miles in and called so and so and oh my god, but yeah let’s
05:00.480 –> 05:08.640
say it must be like 3.5 or 4 mile mark, maybe close to 5, I haven’t checked yet but I haven’t
05:08.640 –> 05:12.560
seen any signs or anything, that sign says 2 miles and that was about 2 miles to a few
05:12.560 –> 05:26.680
miles for you, so I don’t know, we shall see, yes we’re about 2.5 miles from Lyme, I’m
05:26.680 –> 05:31.480
still waiting for the arduous bit, I could call it many words, I wouldn’t call it arduous,
05:31.480 –> 05:38.680
I’ll call it irritating and pointless, those are the two words I would actually use, if
05:38.680 –> 05:44.520
the sign had said “hey Tim”, I wouldn’t say “hey Tim”, I’d be weird if it had said “hey Tim”,
05:44.520 –> 05:48.440
the sign said this is a boring pointless thing and you weren’t to the coast, I wouldn’t have
05:48.440 –> 05:55.040
done it, no it said it was, it sort of tempted me in by saying it’s arduous and there’s no
05:55.040 –> 06:00.960
exit point, which is also not right, there are two exit points, there is an exit point
06:00.960 –> 06:07.360
at Rousdon, there’s a ruin pump house, there’s a track that goes up to the peak estate, yes
06:07.360 –> 06:13.400
peak, as in Peek Freans, as in the biscuits, although they sold it ages ago and I met some
06:13.400 –> 06:18.160
people there who said oh you just press the button on the gate to get out, so that’s
06:18.160 –> 06:25.920
leaky, you know this is very sort of around my walking blog, if you’ve ever read my walking
06:25.920 –> 06:32.000
blog which is walking the wrong way, which I haven’t updated for years, but that’s a
06:32.000 –> 06:42.000
similar thing is that I talk about a lot about that, about the fact you know there’s a lot
06:42.000 –> 06:45.520
of private signs, a lot of people going oh you can’t come to here and you find you can
06:45.520 –> 06:51.600
or you can go over a gate or whatever or it’s fine and there’s a second one as well, so
06:51.600 –> 06:58.120
that sign was actually lying, there’s a permissive footpath to Pinhay and it says something about
06:58.120 –> 07:06.040
your no access to the A30205 and lands between, but it goes to Pinhay, so unless it has this
07:06.040 –> 07:10.760
fence and you can’t jump over the fence to even go back to Pinhay, there must be a point
07:10.760 –> 07:16.120
you can get out of that point at the Pinhay, so why would you ever have that footpath,
07:16.120 –> 07:22.680
so I found, I’m not even finished, I found two exit points, so not only was that sign
07:22.680 –> 07:28.160
wrong about oh there is no, and I really should take a picture of it now, maybe if there’s
07:28.160 –> 07:34.840
not one other side I will, but yeah it’s not arduous, it’s irritating, it’s just lots
07:34.840 –> 07:42.480
of uppy-downs but there’s steps and it’s just kind of a bit you know, I’d say at the
07:42.480 –> 07:51.320
what would be that five mile mark, now yeah my feet are hurting, but there’s nothing
07:51.320 –> 07:55.160
I’ve been going like oh god, it’s not like as I say it’s a bit of a moot bay or cotton
07:55.160 –> 08:02.160
cap in those places, you know it’s not like that walk I did earlier, the third second
08:02.160 –> 08:09.160
day of the whole day when my legs went to jelly, that was scary, this is just, it’s like
08:09.160 –> 08:14.320
Surrey on steroids really, and there’s some interesting ruins that pop up, like that pump
08:14.320 –> 08:23.920
house there’s another one, apparently there used to be sheep herding, or sheep keeping
08:23.920 –> 08:30.960
down here, up until 1900, and then there was, those pump houses were for the peak estate
08:30.960 –> 08:35.960
and you know so there’s some farm things, there’s not many things here, but it’s all
08:35.960 –> 08:42.720
very, I just don’t see the point of having a coastal walk, you don’t actually see the
08:42.720 –> 08:48.880
coast, because I’ve only seen the coast like two or three times in this whole walk, usually
08:48.880 –> 08:54.400
you can’t see it, you’re walking through what is basically like as I said end or forest
08:54.400 –> 08:59.280
sort of big trees and cliffs, I’m impressed by how big the trees get when they’re just
08:59.280 –> 09:04.480
left on their own, that’s quite impressive, but there’s only a couple of trees I thought
09:04.480 –> 09:08.520
oh I might draw that out, there’s only two trees I thought, two or three trees or something
09:08.520 –> 09:14.400
they’re interesting, the rest is just as I say it’s just a bit like a more upy, sorry
09:14.400 –> 09:22.440
it’s a bit like Box Hill, it’s like eternally walking through the bit by the river moll
09:22.440 –> 09:26.560
with a cliff on the side and you’ve got those trees and you’ve got that very steep back
09:26.560 –> 09:33.800
bankment cliff with those things, it’s basically that for seven miles, and so I really don’t
09:33.800 –> 09:41.680
recommend it, not because oh my god it’s arduous or oh my god it’s really difficult, it’s not,
09:41.680 –> 09:46.400
just because it’s just me, and usually if there is anything interesting like this, back
09:46.400 –> 09:51.880
there I heard the sound of falling water, and you’re not allowed to, you’re not supposed
09:51.880 –> 09:57.000
to leave the path, I’m at the moment actually, but you know you don’t usually leave the path
09:57.000 –> 10:03.760
because of landslips and stuff and also buildings and all kinds of stuff here, you know, I’m
10:03.760 –> 10:08.800
not, but you know there was a path to have a look at it, but I was just like oh ouch,
10:08.800 –> 10:12.880
you know, thought she’s out, but you can’t see it from the path, it’s too much greenery,
10:12.880 –> 10:19.360
it’s too much, but interestingly someone’s been through and streamed the overhanging
10:19.360 –> 10:25.240
greenery, so this idea of being arduous path where actually there’s steps, benches and
10:25.240 –> 10:31.480
someone has gone through and strimmed and removed all the fallen trees and streamed
10:31.480 –> 10:39.720
all the overhanging stuff, it’s like, yeah, whoever had that sign obviously never walks
10:39.720 –> 10:45.640
anywhere, anyway I’ve got a few, well not only a few miles to go because the thing is
10:45.640 –> 10:49.600
obviously two and a half is to Lyme and I’ll probably, because I’ve got my shopping with
10:49.600 –> 10:56.680
me and I did my shopping, I’ll probably just head straight up from where actually, so I
10:56.680 –> 11:02.160
would like to get some ice from somewhere, but otherwise, you know, it’s not worth slapping
11:02.160 –> 11:07.680
all the way into Lyme for that, especially as it will take me a while to walk back, it
11:07.680 –> 11:17.160
will probably be melted anyway, so yeah, I could create ice if I had some receptacles
11:17.160 –> 11:28.160
to freeze it in, but yes, so yeah, it’s not really, it’s just, yeah, it’s not really
11:28.160 –> 11:34.640
sort of, wow, this is so difficult, you know, it’s just like, no, and also it’s really
11:34.640 –> 11:40.720
not the coast, I’ve done walks like this before, on my walk, they’re walking their
11:40.720 –> 11:48.880
own way blog, which is mutinpop.net slash walk, by the way, I used to do lots of, the
11:48.880 –> 11:54.240
same sort of thing as this, but I photographed them rather than artworks, I still photograph
11:54.240 –> 11:58.000
this as well, but I used to be just about the photographs and then, I think I mentioned
11:58.000 –> 12:03.320
before, I would you pick, track and stuff like that, which is why I was confusing, Bognor
12:03.320 –> 12:08.120
Regis with Lyme Regis, I don’t know why I did that, because I was in Bognor Regis walking
12:08.120 –> 12:16.400
along there, the Lyme Regis is not flat, by the way, it hasn’t had a station for a long
12:16.400 –> 12:25.200
time, but the, sorry, I’ve had a station, I think it did, but yeah, I talked about the
12:25.200 –> 12:31.760
fact that I used to walk along the river, I had a series of walks along the River Thames,
12:31.760 –> 12:41.760
and what happened is, Windsor, it goes so far away from the river, you can’t even see
12:41.760 –> 12:47.920
the river, and partly because HMQ has decided to close the walk along Windsor Park, you
12:47.920 –> 12:52.320
have to go on either side, and the people in the, I don’t know the name of it, Datchett,
12:52.320 –> 12:56.400
yeah, Datchett, the village of Datchett have decided not to allow anyone to walk in front
12:56.400 –> 13:00.080
of their properties, so you’re actually walking along a road, and you can’t even see the river
13:00.080 –> 13:07.560
for about several miles, so I get rather annoyed when you’ve got like a coastal walk, and what
13:07.560 –> 13:14.520
you are, I can just about see, only because I actually, sitting on the bank that’s between
13:14.520 –> 13:20.520
you and the thing, I’ve actually gone off the path you’re not supposed to do, I can
13:20.520 –> 13:30.000
actually see the sea, that’s not a coastal walk, anyway, I got my midget gems, this
13:30.000 –> 13:35.440
has been a several midget gem walk, but not, I have like a rating of how many midget gems
13:35.440 –> 13:40.000
or winegums I have, if I had a lot of them then that was a hard walk, but this was not
13:40.000 –> 13:48.160
that many, so anyway, I’ll speak to you soon, well I’m just walking at Ware Lane, I even
13:48.160 –> 13:55.520
saw the warehouse, yeah there’s actually a place called Ware House in Ware, and it’s
13:55.520 –> 14:02.080
about the same, W.A.R.E., almost makes me giggle Ware House, where’s the house? Ware House
14:02.080 –> 14:17.080
party! come on people, Ware House party! and I can honestly say that was the worst, no,
14:17.080 –> 14:22.520
not in the sense of, oh my god that’s really bad, I was really terrible or I got really
14:22.520 –> 14:30.400
wet or I was really, you know, it’s really painful, or it was really, you know, this
14:30.400 –> 14:46.040
or that, no, that was honestly the most boring and the most non-coastal coast path walk I’ve
14:46.040 –> 14:52.920
ever done, and I really do not recommend it, it got to the point at the end it was difficult,
14:52.920 –> 14:58.000
not because it was, I actually found the sign at the end which had the same wording, difficult
14:58.000 –> 15:07.080
and arduous, it’s only difficult because it’s so fucking boring, and it’s only arduous,
15:07.080 –> 15:20.880
because it’s so boring, it’s so, you know, you get deja vu after a while, it’s like walking
15:20.880 –> 15:27.400
through a jungle, you’re like, haven’t I been here before, this looks really familiar,
15:27.400 –> 15:39.920
I haven’t been here before, there’s a lot of that, and yes, so it’s sort of, I don’t
15:39.920 –> 15:47.280
know, it’s one of these things which is like, do not recommend that walk at all, the under
15:47.280 –> 15:55.320
cliff walk, to see what is apparently a coastal walk, but you’ll see this coast about three
15:55.320 –> 16:03.000
times, and what really annoyed me is as I came up to Chimney Rock, which is well worth
16:03.000 –> 16:08.920
visiting, Upper Path, which was a thousand times more difficult than anything on the
16:08.920 –> 16:16.680
difficult and arduous coastal walk, and we seriously like, oh look, I’m almost getting
16:16.680 –> 16:26.920
attacked in the face by nettles, because it’s so steep, and the steps are starting to fall
16:26.920 –> 16:39.480
down, no trimmed, no benches and no trimmed, no trimming, no lawnmowing there, and yeah,
16:39.480 –> 16:46.320
I saw the gloaming, and I was like, fuck, really lovely pink gloaming over the sea, I was like,
16:46.320 –> 16:54.680
I want to paint that, but no, to do that would be walking to Lyme, another mile, then two
16:54.680 –> 17:04.080
miles back, and after that long knackering, except shit walk, I don’t really want to,
17:04.080 –> 17:08.640
you know, and there’s two things I want to get from Lyme, but I’m just sort of limping
17:08.640 –> 17:16.600
home, because as I say, the walk wasn’t too, it wasn’t like that walk on the third day,
17:16.600 –> 17:30.400
but it’s just avoid that walk, just do not do it, a rare car on Gore Lane, just don’t
17:30.400 –> 17:36.080
do it, it’s just not worth it, I think there are paths over the tops of the cliffs that
17:36.080 –> 17:41.560
this isn’t the official south-west coast path, but I was expecting it to join up with those,
17:41.560 –> 17:50.040
it didn’t, what it did is it went up, there was a shortcut almost vertical up these steps
17:50.040 –> 18:00.760
to the Chimney Rock, which is quite interesting, this is sort of rocky out post, and you can
18:00.760 –> 18:11.400
see the sea from there, but not enough to draw or paint here, so yeah, there was a Trading
18:11.400 –> 18:19.600
Standards for footpaths naming, I think there would be a claim in for that south-west coast
18:19.600 –> 18:24.640
walk, because strictly it is along the coast, but you kind of assume in the coast walk you
18:24.640 –> 18:33.280
would actually be able to see the coast, not be in trees all the time, but one thing it
18:33.280 –> 18:37.960
does actually explain something, I mean the guy in the way was almost really hard to think
18:37.960 –> 18:48.160
it wasn’t, so maybe my superpower is walking in cool, rather cold actually, damp forests,
18:48.160 –> 18:55.200
there was bounding through that, towards the end really bounding through, because I was
18:55.200 –> 19:01.720
swearing a lot, just going, this is fucking cheap, this is terrible, this is boring, this
19:01.720 –> 19:08.880
is a nice boring walk ever, because once you’ve, you want some variety in a walk, you want
19:08.880 –> 19:12.720
a little bit more than just, and there was nothing I could paint or anything, because
19:12.720 –> 19:18.640
when you’ve got just a whole forest of trees, I could have chosen one or the other, but
19:18.640 –> 19:23.480
I would hear about eight o’clock now, and he told me about three hours, he said three
19:23.480 –> 19:28.880
and a half to four hours, took me about three hours and I stopped for an hour to do a drawing,
19:28.880 –> 19:36.760
the only thing I found interesting was the ruined pump house at Rousdon, but the rest
19:36.760 –> 19:51.000
of it was slight, really, whoever wrote that whole, oh you know, it’s difficult and arduous,
19:51.000 –> 20:08.360
needs to go walking elsewhere, oh dear, two cars, this is not good, the road was quiet,
20:08.360 –> 20:22.160
obviously not as quiet as I thought it would be, but yeah, so anyway he was waiting for me
20:22.160 –> 20:28.000
to get to the pissing place, let’s go, let’s go, let’s go, let’s go, but yeah, would not
20:28.000 –> 20:40.200
recommend.

It did get a bit more hilly climbing up from the lower valley of Rousdon but I still did it quickly, and passed the inland path again warning of ‘no access’ but looking on the map it passed about 200m from a main road. I suspect that would be leaky as well. The last bit wasn’t taxing or difficult bar the odd tiny stream. It was just boring because no scenery, just trees, and dumb warning signs. In fact it was laughable that every 1/2 mile you’d have a direction sign, as if you could get lost on a single path?

Also strangely someone had just come through and cut all the overhanging greenery as well, making it even more easier. So finally I got to the other sign at the Lyme end so could take a photograph. I did the path in record time – around 3- 3 1/2 hours with the drawing stop – but was annoyed cos if I knew the signs were total blarney I’d have stopped more and not done it at such a pace. But then again it was so boring, I’d probably have legged it anyway. Trading Standards should be involved! The only drama was I scratched the screen of my new-ish Xiaomi Poco X3 phone with my trekking pole, thankfully not breaking it.

One nice bit as I climbed up the far steeper and more interesting bit at Ware, I found Chimney Rock with amazing views of the sea, and very few silly signs to be found (apart from not falling off it – well I wasn’t planning to). I’d visit that and give this unWUndercliff a miss. But later in the trip I found a much better undercliff at Beer but that’s for the next and last part. Which finally has much more dramatic views (and some stranding drama, escaped dogs excitement, and a health scare) than this sad excuse for a coast path.

Sightseers (Camping At Cannington), Fountain Pen and wash, A4 Flat White Sketchbook.
Sightseers (Camping At Cannington), Fountain Pen and wash, A4 Flat White Sketchbook.
NEXT: after an unarousing rousdon, An Accidental Shepherd, Cliffs of beer and Exmouth vs an Eczema Ending
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